Avg: 3 from 55 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FA '85 McGown, Opdycke, Jill Green|
|Page Views:||4,502 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Dec 11, 2010 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
From here, scramble up the dirty blocks to the obtuse corner/crack system. Follow this, clipping a couple old pitons and utilizing lots of unique holds in the crack more than crack technique. At the first ledge, which has a set of anchors on the left, you can belay or make a tricky move back into the crack (thin). Continue climbing the low angle cracks to another ledge and pull the tricky crux up to another ledge with bolted anchors.
The final short pitch climbs the crack to the right of the anchors. Jam the finger crack and squeeze into the flaring pod until it eases as you find features on the face above. A short step leads to another bolted anchor belay.
Either walk left around the corner and onto Grassy Ledges and continue to the top via another line or rappel the route. Do not skip any anchors with a 60m, but a 70m might allow you to skip one.