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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA '85 McGown, Opdycke, Jill Green
Page Views: 3,131 total, 37/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 11, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The route is the right-most crack just above and right of the Snag Ledge belay. This can be accessed in many different ways, the most popular of which are Little Wing and SE Corner first pitch.

From here, scramble up the dirty blocks to the obtuse corner/crack system. Follow this, clipping a couple old pitons and utilizing lots of unique holds in the crack more than crack technique. At the first ledge, which has a set of anchors on the left, you can belay or make a tricky move back into the crack (thin). Continue climbing the low angle cracks to another ledge and pull the tricky crux up to another ledge with bolted anchors.

The final short pitch climbs the crack to the right of the anchors. Jam the finger crack and squeeze into the flaring pod until it eases as you find features on the face above. A short step leads to another bolted anchor belay.

Either walk left around the corner and onto Grassy Ledges and continue to the top via another line or rappel the route. Do not skip any stations, even with a 70m rope.

Location

From the top of the first pitch of SE Corner route, go up and right to the rightmost consistent crack system.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
You could link pitches 1&2 together, but communication will be very difficult.

Also, a 70m rope barely makes it from the top anchor to the first anchor above Snag Ledge, allowing you to skip one short rappel. You still have to make two more raps from here to reach the ground. Jul 21, 2017
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
 
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
 
Pretty cool route. We thought we were clever, and tried to do fewer rappels with a 70m - dumb idea. You can't skip any rappel station without some down-climbing. While not the sketchiest thing ever (with good knots in the ends...), it's definitely not worth it. Make the four simple raps and be safe (or use two ropes).

When next I climb this, it'll definitely be in one pitch with my 70m (starting at Snag Ledge, so two pitches overall from the ground). Aug 9, 2016
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.9
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.9
Climb the whole thing as one pitch with a 70m. Oct 23, 2014
adam winslow
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
adam winslow   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
The flow of this route is GREATLY improved if the first rappel station from snag ledge is bypassed and the first 180' of this route is climbed as one pitch. After that their is still a second pitch (3rd pitch if you stop and belay at the rappel station) that ends at the grassy ledges. Mar 26, 2011