Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA '85 McGown, Opdycke, Jill Green
Page Views: 3,700 total · 36/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 11, 2010 with improvements by Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

The route is the right-most crack just above and right of the Snag Ledge belay. This can be accessed in many different ways, the most popular of which are Little Wing and SE Corner first pitch.

From here, scramble up the dirty blocks to the obtuse corner/crack system. Follow this, clipping a couple old pitons and utilizing lots of unique holds in the crack more than crack technique. At the first ledge, which has a set of anchors on the left, you can belay or make a tricky move back into the crack (thin). Continue climbing the low angle cracks to another ledge and pull the tricky crux up to another ledge with bolted anchors.

The final short pitch climbs the crack to the right of the anchors. Jam the finger crack and squeeze into the flaring pod until it eases as you find features on the face above. A short step leads to another bolted anchor belay.

Either walk left around the corner and onto Grassy Ledges and continue to the top via another line or rappel the route. Do not skip any stations, even with a 70m rope.

Location

From the top of the first pitch of SE Corner route, go up and right to the rightmost consistent crack system.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

adam winslow
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
adam winslow   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
The flow of this route is GREATLY improved if the first rappel station from snag ledge is bypassed and the first 180' of this route is climbed as one pitch. After that their is still a second pitch (3rd pitch if you stop and belay at the rappel station) that ends at the grassy ledges. Mar 26, 2011
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.9
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.9
Climb the whole thing as one pitch with a 70m. Oct 23, 2014
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
 
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
 
Pretty cool route. We thought we were clever, and tried to do fewer rappels with a 70m - dumb idea. You can't skip any rappel station without some down-climbing. While not the sketchiest thing ever (with good knots in the ends...), it's definitely not worth it. Make the four simple raps and be safe (or use two ropes).

When next I climb this, it'll definitely be in one pitch with my 70m (starting at Snag Ledge, so two pitches overall from the ground). Aug 9, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
You could link pitches 1&2 together, but communication will be very difficult.

Also, a 70m rope barely makes it from the top anchor to the first anchor above Snag Ledge, allowing you to skip one short rappel. You still have to make two more raps from here to reach the ground. Jul 21, 2017