Type: | Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | FA: 5-71 Les Nugent, Bill Herman, Bill Nickle; FFA to Big Ledge: 5-77 Robert McGowan, Levi Grey; FFA P3: 1983 Alan Lester Mark Cartier. Source: Por |
Page Views: | 553 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Stephen Shostek on Aug 31, 2021 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Steppenwolf passes through the roof-capped alcove directly above the third tunnel, follows the corner above the alcove to Big Ledge, and continues up the corner to the left of The Norseman and various crack systems to the hiking trail above. Portland Rock Climbs called it “one of the best prizes at Beacon Rock.” It can be enjoyed as single pitches or as a full route depending on your ability and interests. The difficulty to Big Ledge is .11a.
P1: Start at the third tunnel on the original P1 for Dod’s jam. Follow Dod’s left-trending P1 for approx. 20 meters until it’s feasible to step right and move up to the alcove capped by a roof. Be careful of loose flakes on the floor of the alcove. Two bolt anchor with Metolius Rap Hangers. 35m, 5.7
P2: Exit the alcove on its right side, being cautious about possible loose flakes. Layback and stem the corner, passing a fixed pin and then a nest of fixed nuts along the way. Hollow flakes at mid-height seem to be pinned in place and stable. This pitch finishes with an exhilarating overhung finger sized jam crack to Big Ledge and a recently installed 2-bolt anchor. 45m, .11a
P3: Jam and stem the corner crack above Big Ledge situated to the right of the 2-bolt anchor. Pass through an overlap where the crack takes a #4 C4. Above this short wide section the crack thins down to tips sizes. Bolted anchor. 30m, .11d or .12a.
P4-5: I’ve not climbed above the P3 anchor, so for the final 2 pitches I’ll refer to Portland Rock Climbs, 4th edition which describes “mixed free and aid climbing up the main headwall to the west side hiker’s trail.” If you have details, please add them.
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