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Routes in South Face
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3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bluebird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roll On Columbia T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face | 2827 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 45.6268, -122.01974 |
| FA: | Jeff Thomas, Neal Olson and Mike Smelsar in 1977 |
| Page Views: | 561 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Stephen Shostek on Sep 16, 2022 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
The circus is back in town! Flying Circus is a two pitch route established by Jeff Thomas, Neal Olson and Mike Smelsar in 1977. Like some other routes in this vicinity, it fell into obscurity and nature began reclaiming it. Judging from the growth of shrubs, maples, moss and lichen I’d guess it hadn’t been climbed in 2 decades. Recent gardening, brushing and digging revealed a gem of a route.
Flying Circus calls for all manner of climbing styles from thin crimps to stemming, jamming and wide crack climbing. The climbing can be well protected for the entire route.
Pitch 1 starts with a tips crack that quickly slams shut to become a bolt protected corner seam that slowly widens to fingers, then hands, then off-width sizes. The final 30 feet of pitch 1 is #5 BD C4 sized. The corner seam was protected by 5 pitons that have been replaced by 3 bolts with the permission of the FA. Constrictions in the finger and thin hand sections take nuts or the Hexentrics that were common in the 70’s. Modern cams will also do just fine. Pitch 1 ends atop a column adjacent to Big Ledge and a few meters east of the Blood Sweat and Smears anchor. P1 is 45 meters long, anchor is Metolius Rap Hangers.
Pitch 2 follows a finger and hand crack for 15 meters to join the original Dod’s Jam route in the Great Amphitheater. (The P2 crack is currently lined with moss and furry grey lichen, a cleaning project for next season. Not recommended at this time.)
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