Avg: 3 from 31 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|Page Views:||1,841 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Sep 4, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details
The south face of Beacon Rock is closed for all technical rock climbing every year from Feb. 1 - July 15 due to peregrine falcon nesting. The south side climber's access trail also is closed for all access during this time.
Given a 5.7 grade in Tim Olson's Portland Rock Climbs book, this route is thin and intimidating even for the 5.8 grade. Start up a slabby face with a shallow crack near a tall oak tree, just before heading around/up to the start of South East Corner. Utilize face holds while finagling small gear into the pods in the crack, continuing upwards through a very thin section of the crack (long reach helpful). Hit a roof, step left with good gear, then continue up through a few more hand-foot matches to grassy ledges. Traverse right to the Pitch 2 anchors of South East Corner. Continue up via this route or rap from two fat Metolius bolts.
Past the start for Young Warriors, before the start for Little Wing and South East Corner. At a belay platform below a big oak tree.
Gear to 2" (emphasis in smaller stuff!)
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