Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,115 total · 28/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 4, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Given a 5.7 grade in Tim Olson's Portland Rock Climbs book, this route is thin and intimidating even for the 5.8 grade. Start up a slabby face with a shallow crack near a tall oak tree, just before heading around/up to the start of South East Corner. Utilize face holds while finagling small gear into the pods in the crack, continuing upwards through a very thin section of the crack (long reach helpful). Hit a roof, step left with good gear, then continue up through a few more hand-foot matches to grassy ledges. Traverse right to the Pitch 2 anchors of South East Corner. Continue up via this route or rap from two fat Metolius bolts.

Location

Past the start for Young Warriors, before the start for Little Wing and South East Corner. At a belay platform below a big oak tree.

Protection

Gear to 2" (emphasis in smaller stuff!)

Photos

This is one of the classic pitches at Beacon Rock. Solid but well spaced gear, interesting and varied movement, and it allows a shortcut to the SE corner if someone else has gotten to the start before you. Well worth taking a whirl on. Don't forget the stoppers for the first half! May 27, 2013
Shad Williams
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Shad Williams   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Great climb. Thin crack takes small nuts better than cams. Traverse move under the roof can be protected with good cams or slinging a block with a double length sling. Jul 20, 2013
Billcoe  
Did this yesterday and logged in to see the grade. Tim lists it as 5.7 in his book but it's 5.9. Or I'm old:-) Could be both. On the block that is noted in the comment above, I used that on the FA of Couchmaster, but it has been pointed out to me that it is probably a detached block that will come off at some point, so I'd pass by even if you want to use it for pro. At least don't yard on it or fall if you do stick a piece in there.


This route got done after I'd ground up led/wirebrushed what Jim named Couchmaster, the 5.10 crack just to the right that I did with Gary Rall and Jim Opdycke in early May 1985. As we were climbing Couchmaster, Jim had spied a mossy line just to the left and later went up and dug it out. It turned into this superb route which I named Cruisemaster after we did it. Dennis Hemminger led it, I seconded and Jim followed. Jim changed the name a year or 2 later to Crusin' as there were too many "master" climbing names -ie, Rockmaster, Couchmaster....and they were physically all close together. Still a very enjoyable route and it does take perfect nuts as said upthread by Steve. 5.9:-) Jul 25, 2015
Great places for nuts. If not, it's absolutely terrifying. Because I didn't have them[thanks climbing partner...], I feel like its a very sustained route that's stiff for the "5.7" grade. Exciting and fun, but definitely not a beginner climb.

Definitely awesome to hop the line to SE corner though :D Aug 17, 2015
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.8+
Crusin' is definitely in the "plus" category. :) It'll keep you on your toes with thin smearing for feet, and a mean traverse up high.

This route takes nuts well. I used one cam off the ground for a directional, then nuts, then two cams equalized in the right-hand crack before the traverse left. One more cam in the right-hand finger crack finished it off.

Getting to the top will drop you off in between the first two pitches of SE Corner. There's no real anchor specifically for this route. Sep 2, 2018