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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,780 total, 28/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 4, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Given a 5.7 grade in Tim Olson's Portland Rock Climbs book, this route is thin and intimidating even for the 5.8 grade. Start up a slabby face with a shallow crack near a tall oak tree, just before heading around/up to the start of South East Corner. Utilize face holds while finagling small gear into the pods in the crack, continuing upwards through a very thin section of the crack (long reach helpful). Hit a roof, step left with good gear, then continue up through a few more hand-foot matches to grassy ledges. Traverse right to the Pitch 2 anchors of South East Corner. Continue up via this route or rap from two fat Metolius bolts.

Location

Past the start for Young Warriors, before the start for Little Wing and South East Corner. At a belay platform below a big oak tree.

Protection

Gear to 2" (emphasis in smaller stuff!)

Photos

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Great places for nuts. If not, it's absolutely terrifying. Because I didn't have them[thanks climbing partner...], I feel like its a very sustained route that's stiff for the "5.7" grade. Exciting and fun, but definitely not a beginner climb.

Definitely awesome to hop the line to SE corner though :D Aug 17, 2015
Billcoe  
Did this yesterday and logged in to see the grade. Tim lists it as 5.7 in his book but it's 5.9. Or I'm old:-) Could be both. On the block that is noted in the comment above, I used that on the FA of Couchmaster, but it has been pointed out to me that it is probably a detached block that will come off at some point, so I'd pass by even if you want to use it for pro. At least don't yard on it or fall if you do stick a piece in there.


This route got done after I'd ground up led/wirebrushed what Jim named Couchmaster, the 5.10 crack just to the right that I did with Gary Rall and Jim Opdycke in early May 1985. As we were climbing Couchmaster, Jim had spied a mossy line just to the left and later went up and dug it out. It turned into this superb route which I named Cruisemaster after we did it. Dennis Hemminger led it, I seconded and Jim followed. Jim changed the name a year or 2 later to Crusin' as there were too many "master" climbing names -ie, Rockmaster, Couchmaster....and they were physically all close together. Still a very enjoyable route and it does take perfect nuts as said upthread by Steve. 5.9:-) Jul 25, 2015
Shad Williams
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Shad Williams   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Great climb. Thin crack takes small nuts better than cams. Traverse move under the roof can be protected with good cams or slinging a block with a double length sling. Jul 20, 2013
This is one of the classic pitches at Beacon Rock. Solid but well spaced gear, interesting and varied movement, and it allows a shortcut to the SE corner if someone else has gotten to the start before you. Well worth taking a whirl on. Don't forget the stoppers for the first half! May 27, 2013