Avg: 4 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|Page Views:||1,042 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
DO NOT CLIMB THIS VIA THE ORIGINAL START!!! The top of the huge, leaning pillar is completely detached and moves if touched! The new approach is to come up either Spring Fever, Winter Delight, or Sufficiently Breathless, continuing past the anchor up a broken crack to a new bolted anchor and start straight up from there. This adds the best bit of Bluebird Direct - the part that can be protected - and leads seamlessly into the upper section of this pitch.
Once at the anchor atop the flake, stem and layback your way up on small gear in the right-hand crack. The crack will slowly widen to allow for locking finger jams. As the left pillar gets further away, switch to stemming off of small features on either side of the obtuse dihedral. A distinct, thin crux hits you right before you get a rest on a ledge 2/3 of the way up. The crack opens to hands here but remains strenuous. A glory face-jug greets you at the top as you pull onto the ledge shared with Right Gull. Continue to the Grassy Ledges via this route and rappel Jill's Thrill or rappel down the route with a 70m rope.