Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||84 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Nov 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Closure for Peregrine Falcon Nesting Details
The south face of Beacon Rock is closed for all technical rock climbing every year from Feb. 1 - July 15 due to peregrine falcon nesting. The south side climber's access trail also is closed for all access during this time.
DescriptionIt blows my mind that this pitch doesn't get more attention! It is utterly fantastic - clean, splitter, but still has lots of variation.
DO NOT CLIMB THIS VIA THE ORIGINAL START!!! The top of the huge, leaning pillar is completely detached and moves if touched! The new approach is to come up Spring Fever to a new bolted anchor and start straight up from there. This adds the best bit of Bluebird Direct - the part that can be protected - and leads seamlessly into the upper section of this pitch.
Once at the anchor atop the flake, stem and layback your way up on small gear in the right-hand crack. The crack will slowly widen to allow for locking finger jams. As the left pillar gets further away, switch to stemming off of small features on either side of the obtuse dihedral. A distinct, thin crux hits you right before you get a rest on a ledge 2/3 of the way up. The crack opens to hands here but remains strenuous. A glory face-jug greets you at the top as you pull onto the ledge shared with Right Gull. Continue to the Grassy Ledges via this route and rappel Jill's Thrill or rappel down Right Gull any number of ways, making sure to knot your ends.
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