Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas, Del Young (1976)|
|Page Views:||631 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||the professor on Jun 11, 2013|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
All faces of Beacon Rock with the exception of “Stone Soup” on the northwest face are closed for all technical rock climbing effective Feb. 1, 2017, due to peregrine falcon nesting season. Climbers must rappel down ";Stone Soup"; when finished, no walk-off access is currently available. The climber's trail also is closed for all access effective Feb. 1, 2017. The approximate date of when climbing will reopen is around the middle of July 2017 for select areas. The east face is permanently closed for the protection of rare species, cultural and historical resources. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.
DescriptionMany of the 1980s Beacon Rock climbers viewed Flying Swallow as the highest quality climb on the crag (yes, better than Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack, better than Blownout). The old Jeff Thomas guidebook mentioned a runout, but this probably referred to the 5.4 ledge traverse prior to gaining the Flying Swallow dihedral.
P1: climb any of Local Access Only, Reasonable Richard (best choice), or Black Maria. Continue right along an obvious ledge and belay at the base of the Flying Swallow dihedral (5.9, 100 feet).
P2: Stem the dihedral (crux) up clean rock with bits of red lichen, past a bolt to a ledge (5.10d, 75 feet).
P3: A remarkably clean and beautiful dihedral starts with fingers and widens to hands. Belay at the obvious ledge. (5.10b, 60 feet).
P4: A short dihedral with hand crack ends on the far left edge of Grassy Ledges (5.10a, 40 feet).
There is a variation to P3: another less clean dihedral just to the right. Although not as aesthetic as the standard P3, it's worth top-roping at 5.10b/c.
LocationOn the SE Face somewhat right of Free For All. Consult Tim Olson's guidebook for details. P3 of Flying Swallow is immediately right of P2 on Flight Time.
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