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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: 1989 - Tim Olson, Neal Olsen, Jim Davis
Page Views: 207 total, 13/month
Shared By: Stephen Sh on Sep 9, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

In recent years Reasonable Richard has been known for its thick carpet of moss, abundant blackberry canes and shrubs, and non-existent pro. In September 2016 it received a cleaning which exposed cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins. It’s now quite reasonable and provides fun access to some classic 5.10 routes above.

Reasonable Richard starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel. It follows left-trending low-angled slabs to a vertical shallow dihedral ending below Blood Sweat and Smears, Flying Circus, and Flying Swallow.

Follow the low angle slabs (4th and easy 5th class) past a fixed pin and then look for cracks and pods for cams and nuts. After 25 meters, the route transitions to vertical at a shallow right facing corner. At the vertical section, look for a fixed angle pin which can be backed up with a cam, then a 3/8 bolt, followed by discontinuous cracks and pods that accept stoppers and cams up to 1.5 inches. The RR anchor consists of 2 recent good bolts with Metolius rap hangers and a collection of old bolts from an earlier era. Return to the trail with a 35 meter rappel on a single 70m rope, or 60m rope and some easy down climbing.

Location

Starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 1.5 inches. The cracks on Reasonable Richard are discontinuous and open for protection every couple of meters. You’ll need to be alert for gear placements and use them when they appear. The pro in the beta photos are a mix of cams, TCUs, and nuts.
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10a
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10a
There is a nice clean swath of rock leading up to the vertical section of this route. The first pro on this route happens fairly low in easy terrain where one passes an old Bugaboo piton. The route slowly gets steeper and a few small cam placements exist. The piton beside the hollow block is now gone and replaced by a bolt. Easy movement brings one to a second bolt 3/8" which is original. Past that the gear is tricky and the movement not always obvious. I prefer to call this route Tricky Dick.

Gear 0.2-0.5 Camalot Sizes
Offset Nuts
Peanuts/Micro Nuts
Ball Nuts handy Aug 19, 2017