Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m)|
|FA:||1989 - Tim Olson, Neal Olsen, Jim Davis|
|Page Views:||593 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Stephen Shostek on Sep 9, 2016|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
Reasonable Richard starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel. It follows left-trending low-angled slabs to a vertical shallow dihedral ending below Blood Sweat and Smears, Flying Circus, and Flying Swallow.
Follow the low angle slabs (4th and easy 5th class) past a fixed pin and then look for cracks and pods for cams and nuts. After 25 meters, the route transitions to vertical at a shallow right facing corner. At the vertical section, look for a fixed angle pin which can be backed up with a cam, then a 3/8 bolt, followed by discontinuous cracks and pods that accept stoppers and cams up to 1.5 inches. The RR anchor consists of 2 recent good bolts with Metolius rap hangers and a collection of old bolts from an earlier era. Return to the trail with a 35 meter rappel on a single 70m rope, or 60m rope and some easy down climbing.