Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 716 total · 11/month
Shared By: April Milan on Jul 21, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Left facing dihedral with crux near the bottom. Straightforward climbing with finger locks and stemming. Small roof/bulge near top.

Location

Starts above Tunnel 2 at the dihedral above the oak tree on the ledge. Rap off of Metolius anchors. Currently no slings or rap rings.

Protection

Pro to 1.5". A few pitons at the bottom of the dihedral.

Photos

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There used to be three fixed pins protecting the bottom. They were short LAs that you would not want to fall on. Still, this a quality route and the 5.10b rating is accurate (not a sandbag). Sep 21, 2013
The pins are still there, but I would back them up with gear when possible. The first pitch of this route is super quality and protects well. The second pitch is hard! Nov 30, 2013
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
 
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
 
There is a new bolt that protects the lower crux. Great route! It should see more traffic. Sep 20, 2015
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
A pretty straightforward and secure stemming problem for me, although my taller partner had a harder time. Hand work is interesting, as the crack is discontinuous and irregular (not much pure jamming). Protecting it was the trickiest part: You get bomber nut placements at reasonable intervals, but they require an eye and a little skill to place. Most cams that I tried to place between the nuts were marginal at best. Recommended rack: Set of nuts (doubles up to finger sizes), the larger offset nuts are handy too, and cams .2-.5 + an optional 2. Maybe double up on the .2 if you wanna build a nest at the crux. Oct 10, 2015