Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ron Allen, 1987
Page Views: 1,409 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Struck on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Begin immediately left of tunnel #1, and pull bouldery moves up to the high first bolt. It would be a good idea to stick-clip this. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is spotting. After the first bolt, there is a pod for a 3/4" cam that protects the run-out to the next bolt. From here it gets easier, but you will have to make continuously strenuous pulls while finding creative rest stances. Romp up the finishing flake to a heady mantel onto the ledge. This is a good introduction to the steeper routes at Beacon.

Location

Hike down the "climbers trail" past the popular Southeast face route. The route is located immediately left of tunnel #1.

Protection

Four bolts and gear to 2". 3/4" cam essential for runout between 1st and 2nd bolts. Double Metolius rap-bolt anchor.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
The original description of this route was as a "somewhat adventurous sport route." This was dangerously misleading and has been changed to reflect the reality of the climb. Gear is required to prevent a decking fall from 20' and is at least convenient to have when moving between the widely-spaced bolts up high.

The start is quite precarious and will likely require you to step way right in order to reach the first bolt without pulling 5.11 moves. I actually found this to be the crux... you could probably get a cam to work in the back of the flaring slot. After you clip the first bolt and you've made a move to a nice stance, plug a BD .3 or equivalent and keep moving. The moves are continuously difficult with few rests. Near the top you will enjoy having some extra nuts and small-medium cams as well. Aug 18, 2017
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.10d
I found the start straight up to be rather heinous and might even recommend stick clipping the first bolt even if it is that far up. Not a favored line of mine Sep 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Rebolted, but spacing remains spicy. A 2" cam in the slot helps on the way to the first bolt if you can figure out how to place and clip it. A 3/4" cam is required between first and second bolts. An offset nut protects the hard moves between bolts three and four. A larger nut is recommended for the last few moves as the large plate/shield/flake at the top is mostly detached. Jul 15, 2018
First ascent by Ron Allen, 1987 Sep 12, 2018