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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,324 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Struck on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A little funky, a little spicy, but not too much drama.

Begin immediately left of tunnel #1, and pull bouldery moves up to the high first bolt. It would be a good idea to stick-clip this. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is spotting. After the first bolt, there is a pod for a 3/4" cam that protects the run-out to the next bolt. From here it gets easier, but you will have to make continuously strenuous pulls while finding creative rest stances. Romp up the finishing flake to a heady mantel onto the ledge. This is a good introduction to the steeper routes at Beacon.

Location

Hike down the "climbers trail" past the popular Southeast face route. The route is located immediately left of tunnel #1.

Protection

Four bolts and gear to 1.5" - 3/4" cam essential for runout between 1st and 2nd bolts. Double Metolius rap-bolt anchor.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Bolts are currently missing. We are going to remove the last two studs in the wall and replace the bolts in the original holes. Oct 25, 2017
Topher Dabrowski
  5.10d
Topher Dabrowski  
  5.10d
I found the start straight up to be rather heinous and might even recommend stick clipping the first bolt even if it is that far up. Not a favored line of mine Sep 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
The original description of this route was as a "somewhat adventurous sport route." This was dangerously misleading and has been changed to reflect the reality of the climb. Gear is required to prevent a decking fall from 20' and is at least convenient to have when moving between the widely-spaced bolts up high.

Also, the bolts are nearly 30 years old with less-than-ideal hardware and will be replaced soon.

The start is quite precarious and will likely require you to step way right in order to reach the first bolt without pulling 5.11 moves. I actually found this to be the crux... you could probably get a cam to work in the back of the flaring slot. After you clip the first bolt and you've made a move to a nice stance, plug a BD .3 or equivalent and keep moving. The moves are continuously difficult with few rests. Near the top you will enjoy having some extra nuts and small-medium cams as well. Aug 18, 2017