Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ron Allen, 1987
Page Views: 1,713 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Struck on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces Details
Access Issue: 2020: DO NOT TOP OUT! Details

Description

Begin immediately left of tunnel #1, and pull bouldery moves up to the high first bolt. It would be a good idea to stick-clip this. Otherwise, make sure your belayer is spotting. After the first bolt, there is a pod for a 3/4" cam that protects the run-out to the next bolt. From here it gets easier, but you will have to make continuously strenuous pulls while finding creative rest stances. Romp up the finishing flake to a heady mantel onto the ledge. This is a good introduction to the steeper routes at Beacon.

Extension into Bluebird : Continue up and to the right into the shattered flakes. Climb gingerly here - it is eerie but easy. Mount the pillar/flake, belay up your partner, and continue up Bluebird.

Location

Hike down the "climbers trail" past the popular Southeast face route. The route is located immediately left of tunnel #1.

Protection

Four bolts and gear to 2". 3/4" cam essential for runout between 1st and 2nd bolts. Double Metolius rap-bolt anchor.

Photos