Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Summer 1985 Mark Cartier and Darryl Nakahira
Page Views: 140 total · 2/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 23, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Bears in Heat offers a little bit of everything (and it was just cleaned fairly well!) The first pitch follows a zig-zagging crack that forces you to be creative, lie-backing, high-stepping, etc. The pitch takes a lot of smaller gear (mainly cams). The second pitch is BEAUTIFUL and begins with the amazing "bear hug," which eventually gives way to a brilliant just-off-hands-crack (too small at the start and too wide at the top!) From the anchors at the top of the crack keep going by stepping right into the dihedral of Flying Dutchman and finishing at the large grassy ledges. Pitch one is roughly 11b/c and pitch two is roughly 11a. A fantastic route, especially when it sees more traffic. Get on it.

Location

The route begins the same as for Flying Dutchman (past three pitons). From the third, step left and into the zig-zagging crack system. There is an anchor set up where the route begins after the initial movement left. It is just right of the second tunnel.

Protection

Full set of stoppers. Cams doubled/tripled from Metolius #1 to Metolius #4. Singles from #5 - #9.

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Wolfdog  
This climb is full value. Aug 25, 2011