Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn
Page Views: 2,562 total · 30/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 27, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces Details
Access Issue: 2020: DO NOT TOP OUT! Details

Description

An amazing route with great position! The first pitch (10c) follows a neat dihedral system just right of the second tunnel. Several pitons protect the first dihedral, which is gained by scrambling up the mossy blocks. Keep going up and slightly right to gain the left side of "Beacon Tower."

The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.

I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.

Location

Just to the right of tunnel #2, up to Beacon Tower, then left into the dihedral.

Protection

Two Pitons, Three #2 Metolius cams, small nuts, and a red and blue low ball (ball nut). I will submit a picture of my rack.

Photos