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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,172 total, 23/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on Aug 10, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start on the left side of the pillar. Starts with good jams and gear. The crack opens up and pinches back down allowing you to sling the pillar at a couple spots. Pull onto the pillar, rest, and continue up the sustained 5.8 of FFA.

Location

Left of the proper FFA start, right of the Free For Some start.

Protection

Pro to 3". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Healyje
PDX
 
Healyje   PDX
 
I do that with:

Two sets of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets (#7-11)
One WC #10 (Silver) Rock
Metolius MasterCams 1-#1, 1-#2, 1-#5, 2-#6, 2-#7, 1-#8 (just 1-#6 and nothing larger if not doing Dods / Dastardly)

From the ground to the perch anchor I use all HB/DMM offsets except for a #5 and a #7 MasterCam.

You can make it to the tree on a 60m.

I do the offwidth up to the tree with just a DMM #11 Offset and the WC #10 Rock at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up the offwidth respectively, both in perfect placements back in the crack and from good stem stances - if you want more than that you'll need large cams.

Above the tree on Dods and on most of Dastardly it's pretty much cams.

Should be rate 4 stars - definitely a classic.

YMMV... Sep 20, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
Climbed it today while linking it with Dod's and Dastardly. I carried and definitely enjoyed having doubles in cams from BD #.5-4... yes, even the bigger cams were used. I also placed lots of nuts. This pitch is LONG, but can still be rapped with a 70m from the poorly-located rappel anchors. Jul 22, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9+
A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor. Jul 17, 2017