Avg: 3.3 from 76 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||9,078 total · 93/month|
|Shared By:||Dan Flynn on Aug 12, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
P1 5.8 Straightforward march up mostly blocky slabs. If continuing upwards, step left to bolt-and-pin belay on ledge. Otherwise rappel from two bolt anchor. A 70m rope is required to rappel from here to the ground.
P2 5.9 Head left towards the A-shaped feature. Cool moves over the flexing flakes... head more or less straight, not left to the tree belay, but up to 2-bolt anchor.
P3 5.9 Routefinding adventure. Straight up arete with fun moves, then scrambling to a stance at a short dihedral with pins. Pull through this and scramble leftward to a big grassy ledge. Continue up and left to another ledge with two rusty pins in the back corner.
P4 5.9 Traverse left, then up some easy terrain. Crux is getting on to, across, and over a slab section protected by a bolt and a piton. Fun stuff. There is a small grassy ledge a bit above this, or you can keep going up some nice rock until meeting the SE Face Route.
P5: Join the SE route for an easy scramble to the top, then walk off.