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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,497 total, 86/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 12, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Adventurous, wandering multipitch through mostly good rock.

P1 5.8 Straightforward march up mostly blocky slabs. Two bolt anchor. A 70m rope is required to rappel from here to the ground.

P2 5.9 Head left towards the A-shaped feature. Cool moves over the flexing flakes... head more or less straight, not left to the tree belay, but up to 2-bolt anchor.

P3 5.9 Routefinding adventure. Straight up arete with fun moves, through crux dihedral, and then wander up and slightly left to large belay with two rusty pins. 'Die yuppie scum' was written on the rock for some reason...

P4 5.9 Traverse left, then up some easy terrain. Crux is getting on to, across, and over a slab section protected by a bolt and a piton. Fun stuff. There is a small grassy ledge a bit above this, or you can keep going up some nice rock until meeting the SE Face Route.

P5: Join the SE route for an easy scramble to the top, then walk off.

Location

Starts on the east side of the tower. Walking on the trail, just before arriving at the south face there is a short trail heading up to the tower. The first pitch is recognizable for the bolts and the cleaned-off path through the lichen.

Protection

Enough bolts to give you a bit of a line to follow. Guidebook suggests gear to 2.5", and I think we used the 3 once to build an anchor. Anchors are mostly bolted, if you find them.
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8+
The left bolt on the anchor of the first pitch spins. Not the hanger, the bolt itself turns when tightened. I'll try to get around to fixing that at some point... unless someone else does. For now, don't use it as your one clip-in point when anchoring there. Oct 15, 2017
Billcoe  
Hi Christopher -Regarding your question: "can someone confirm we were on the last pitch of Lost Warriors". I think so, sort of. There use to be a huge Doug Fir that terminated both Lost Warriors and a route Tim Olsen and Wayne Wallace put up years back. I think you could also terminate the SE Corner Lost Variation via that tree. Anyway, in 2010 a huge Winter gorge windstorm blew that tree right off the cliff, taking a bunch of rock with it where the roots pried up rock. The scar was @ 25' X 60'. Joseph Healy set up a Beacon Rock pre-Peregrine Falcon opening cleaning expedition, we split up into teams and he and I cleaned that section. JH put in a temporary anchor for us to work off of. It was decided to leave it in place. It wasn't a Lost Warriors anchor although I could see it used as that. It's not close to Young Warriors though, so you were way off. When you climb the ramp, you turn left/up. There is a fixed pin and a bolt about 8 feet above that you will see if you are going the right way. Which it sounds like you weren't.

Did it look like this below? Here's a shot I took of Joe as we were starting to get into it, we went down and tucked our back packs around the corner, he's kicking off big stuff as he goes down and I think that big angular rock below may be in motion:





As we had gotten the loose rocks off: (Hanme is visible by the RR tracks as a white dot in the pic above and below)





Here's a collage JH cobbled together with the Columbia river and me above:



And here's one Hanme Meyers, who was stationed down on the RR tracks as a spotter, took of one I pryed off that was the size of my office desk. You can see JH and I above it.



We got all the loose crap off so no one would get kilt, pretty happy about that. Brutal work. But like a couple of lamo's (tired ones), we left that anchor you found abandoned. Oct 12, 2017
Just posting here to see if someone reads it and can return my gear. We had to bail off of the top of pitch 3 on this route and left a .5 and .75 cam to do so. This was on Saturday night 9/23. We rappelled in today to recover the gear, but someone has already removed it from the route. I would love to get that gear back, and would be more than happy to get you a 6pack for your troubles. Please reach out to me at mcfadden.113@gmail.com. I can provide info of markings on the cams to show that they are mine.

Thanks,
Adam Sep 26, 2017
Christopher Gian
California
 
Christopher Gian   California
 
Climbed this yesterday. Super fun. Route finding was a pain on 3rd, but I also found a few instances where I became a bit confused on pitch 4.



Pitch:
1. Straight forward. Go up, find two bolt anchor -- I think people use this as rappel. BETTER: climb slightly lower left to a bolt + piton -- belay here instead!

2. Fun pitch. Traverse left, go up. Reach the butt but hole. From here I placed smaller gear (c4 .5 and under). Go straight up. you'll see a tree, that's not where you want to go. Instead go right. Reach two bolt anchor. under a dihedral.

3. Dihedral pitch. sweet!! this is where the route finding difficulties may start. Be prepared for radio silence as you won't be able to hear your partner. Go up a few moves with smaller cracks, blocky holds. Reach the dihedral and begin the stem fest. I saw two pitons in the dihedral.

You'll eventually reach a grassy patch with a tree on it.
Route finding trouble begins here: Here I became confused. Go up and left! (do not go up and right towards a single piton on slab and a purple cord as of 7/16/2017).

You'll reach an alcove. Look and deeper and you'll see a two "double-eye" pitons. Belay here.

4. Fun. Go around the corner, clip a few bolts. You'll eventually reach a point where further left you'll see a bolt if you peek around (this is off route) or you'll look up and see a corner seam where you can plug gear and with a single piton. Go up! You'll see a sweet slab with a slight over hang lip. Funny enough, Jim Opdyke was on Jill's Thrill with his buddies and helped me with the beta. Thanks JIM!

You can go straight up the slab for a harder move, or go left on a crack and start some 5.8 slab climbing. On the overhang this is a perfect place for an offset nut! Go up, and you'll reach a right trending ramp -- here's where i think I got lost and accidentally ended up on lost warrior.. I finished the ramp and ended up at a two bolt comfy anchor.

At this point I we climbed one additional pitch with gear size #1 and #3 .. shield-like rocks and scree here so watch out. I eventually landed to a flat area with scree, trees, and a switch back. I built a belay anchor on the tree and brought up my second. We then put on our shoes, scrambled up and towards the guard rail and went left down the hiking trail.

If someone can confirm whether we got onto the last 5.9 pitch of lost warrior that would be awesome!

Chris Jul 16, 2017
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
I whole hearty recommend a 70m rope. Reason is if you decide to rap off after the first pitch you will need a 70m to reach the ground. And depending where you end the 3rd pitch, the 4th pitch could be quite long, 60 meters may just reach.

On the second pitch to exit the “big cave of flexing flakes” climb to its top apex where you will be able to climb the “short but sweet finger crack”. (Quotes from Nate Ball 12-Aug-2013 comment.) We did not find a use for a #3 cam on this pitch unless there was a spot near a non-flexing flake, which we did not see.

The third pitch is a long shallow dihedral. At an old piton near the top of the dihedral either continue up the dihedral or move right for an easier but dirty and unprotected face climbing to the same anchor in an alcove. Just below the alcove is a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree. This is where we belayed.

From the grassy, small tree ledge you can clearly see two arching to the right roofs. Pitch 4 traverses to the left of the arches to a rounded buttress. In traversing from the grassy, small tree ledge you will enter and exit the belay alcove that Nate Ball describes in his comment.

After the rounded buttress there are a number of possible routes to the final Young Warriors belay stance on the SE Corner. If you head too far to the left you may get on the upper part of Cloud Nine 5.9 or Elusive Element 5.10d. In any event pitch 4 is long roughly 60m, most out of sight (and maybe out of sound) of your belayer. And the final part is the only route finding issue we had and may include sparely protected 5.9+ friction slabs.

At the top of each pitch there is a bail point. The top of pitch 1 is a 110’ rap. At the top of the 2nd pitch head left on the ledge until an easy climb leads to the tree ledge of SE Corner and then either finish the SE Corner of if you know how to find the top of Jill’s Thrill, rap it. At the top of the 3rd pitch a short rap down from the belay alcove, or down and to the right from a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree on it, will being you to pitch 4 of the SE Corner route. For this you may have to leave gear for the rap and you will have to set up an anchor in mid-pitch of the SE Corner. Sep 17, 2016
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
 
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
 
This is a pretty cool route. I was sure glad that blank slab was protected by a brand new bolt rather than a quarter incher...

To add to Nate's routefinding info - the only place we encountered routefinding troubles was pitch 3. About 2/3 of the way up there's a hard sequence with a couple fixed pins - go mostly straight up and very slightly right following the cleanest section of rock through this hard section, then afterwards traverse up and left over easy terrain to a big ledge. There weren't any decent gear placements on this traverse, but it was easy. You can see the first brand new bolt of the 4th pitch to the left of the ledge about 10' up. Aug 9, 2016
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
First two bolts on P.4 replaced, Aug. 2015. Thanks ASCA for the bolts. Aug 3, 2015
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
  5.9
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
  5.9
A quality route. Interesting and engaging climbing. Not recommended if not strong leader for the grade due to sporadic gear placements in some areas. Great cracks but also lots of slab. I used small stoppers often. Sometimes bolts are hidden and route is not always obvious. Oct 5, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8+
Approach: the first route you will come to if coming from the east side. A small trail goes up to the wall, before you turn the corner to Cruisin's big oak tree.

Pitch 1 - Long, sustained, but nothing too difficult. Protected by several bolts, but small-medium stoppers will also serve you well. Belay at a pair of super-beefy bolts at the top of the slab.

Pitch 2 - Step out left to a bolt, then undercling on questionable rock and smear on a blank face to reach a big cave of flexing flakes (got a #3 in the left hand side). Finesse your way through this (down not out) to reach a short but sweet finger crack. Don't get caught up in those easy blocks; go out right to another pair of beefy bolts. The SE Corner's tree ledge is 25' up and left. Once you leave this anchor, the only way down is up.

Pitch 3 - Starts with a bang! Right in front of you, the sweet dihedral: finger jams and smearing feet. Then huge holds appear and you scramble up past several ledges. Continue up to a final vertical section. Don't get sucked left, go right and up past a fixed pin. Traverse over and up on easy rock to the Rusty Pin ledge - two pins in an alcove can be used for anchors, or build your own. Sweet hangout ledge.

Pitch 4 - Step left on big holds, and try to fiddle in some gear. Or just pull up to that 1/4" bolt (eww!), then wrestle with the block to gain a series of small ledges. Continue up until you hit a series of mini-roofs with a fixed pin. Step around these on cool holds and pull out the right side. When you see two angle iron bolts, ignore them and move up a slot, then up onto a face with a bolt, then around a corner to the left, then across a totally blank 50-degree slab, then up on bigger holds with some decent exposure. Meet up with the SE Corner.

Pitch 5 - Can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or solo'd. Follow the chunky shoulder up to a dirt trail which takes you up to a metal fence and the hiker's trail. It's 5.4 at most.

Grade III Aug 12, 2013
ChiHarris
Portland, OR
  5.9+
ChiHarris   Portland, OR
  5.9+
Overall this is a great route. Pitch two has some chossy flakes in the lower part of the pitch, but is protected with bolts below the chossy section and has a bomber cam placement right after the section in a nice, but short-lived finger crack (I used a yellow alien). Fantastic climb with great views. Many people complain that the route finding is difficult, however I never ran into any hiccups. Sep 4, 2012
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
I don't have the book -- please add in the comments any other relevant info (FA, pitch descriptions) and I'll update the route description. Aug 13, 2012