Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,964 total · 89/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Aug 12, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details


Adventurous, wandering multipitch through mostly good rock.

P1 5.8 Straightforward march up mostly blocky slabs. If continuing upwards, step left to bolt-and-pin belay on ledge. Otherwise rappel from two bolt anchor. A 70m rope is required to rappel from here to the ground.

P2 5.9 Head left towards the A-shaped feature. Cool moves over the flexing flakes... head more or less straight, not left to the tree belay, but up to 2-bolt anchor.

P3 5.9 Routefinding adventure. Straight up arete with fun moves, then scrambling to a stance at a short dihedral with pins. Pull through this and scramble leftward to a big grassy ledge. Continue up and left to another ledge with two rusty pins in the back corner.

P4 5.9 Traverse left, then up some easy terrain. Crux is getting on to, across, and over a slab section protected by a bolt and a piton. Fun stuff. There is a small grassy ledge a bit above this, or you can keep going up some nice rock until meeting the SE Face Route.

P5: Join the SE route for an easy scramble to the top, then walk off.


Starts on the east side of the tower. Walking on the trail, just before arriving at the south face there is a short trail heading up to the tower. The first pitch is recognizable for the bolts and the cleaned-off path through the lichen.


Enough bolts to give you a bit of a line to follow. Guidebook suggests gear to 2.5", and I think we used the 3 once to build an anchor. Anchors are mostly bolted, if you find them.
Dan Flynn
Dan Flynn   MA  
I don't have the book -- please add in the comments any other relevant info (FA, pitch descriptions) and I'll update the route description. Aug 13, 2012
Portland, OR
ChiHarris   Portland, OR
Overall this is a great route. Pitch two has some chossy flakes in the lower part of the pitch, but is protected with bolts below the chossy section and has a bomber cam placement right after the section in a nice, but short-lived finger crack (I used a yellow alien). Fantastic climb with great views. Many people complain that the route finding is difficult, however I never ran into any hiccups. Sep 4, 2012
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Approach: the first route you will come to if coming from the east side. A small trail goes up to the wall, before you turn the corner to Cruisin's big oak tree.

Pitch 1 - Long, sustained, but nothing too difficult. Protected by several bolts, but small-medium stoppers will also serve you well. Belay at a pair of super-beefy bolts at the top of the slab.

Pitch 2 - Step out left to a bolt, then undercling on questionable rock and smear on a blank face to reach a big cave of flexing flakes (got a #3 in the left hand side). Finesse your way through this (down not out) to reach a short but sweet finger crack. Don't get caught up in those easy blocks; go out right to another pair of beefy bolts. The SE Corner's tree ledge is 25' up and left. Once you leave this anchor, the only way down is up.

Pitch 3 - Starts with a bang! Right in front of you, the sweet dihedral: finger jams and smearing feet. Then huge holds appear and you scramble up past several ledges. Continue up to a final vertical section. Don't get sucked left, go right and up past a fixed pin. Traverse over and up on easy rock to the Rusty Pin ledge - two pins in an alcove can be used for anchors, or build your own. Sweet hangout ledge.

Pitch 4 - Step left on big holds, and try to fiddle in some gear. Or just pull up to that 1/4" bolt (eww!), then wrestle with the block to gain a series of small ledges. Continue up until you hit a series of mini-roofs with a fixed pin. Step around these on cool holds and pull out the right side. When you see two angle iron bolts, ignore them and move up a slot, then up onto a face with a bolt, then around a corner to the left, then across a totally blank 50-degree slab, then up on bigger holds with some decent exposure. Meet up with the SE Corner.

Pitch 5 - Can be pitched out, simul-climbed, or solo'd. Follow the chunky shoulder up to a dirt trail which takes you up to a metal fence and the hiker's trail. It's 5.4 at most.

Grade III Aug 12, 2013
Jason Weinstein
Beaverton, Oregon
Jason Weinstein   Beaverton, Oregon
A quality route. Interesting and engaging climbing. Not recommended if not strong leader for the grade due to sporadic gear placements in some areas. Great cracks but also lots of slab. I used small stoppers often. Sometimes bolts are hidden and route is not always obvious. Oct 5, 2014
George Zack
Orting, WA
George Zack   Orting, WA
First two bolts on P.4 replaced, Aug. 2015. Thanks ASCA for the bolts. Aug 3, 2015
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
This is a pretty cool route. I was sure glad that blank slab was protected by a brand new bolt rather than a quarter incher...

To add to Nate's routefinding info - the only place we encountered routefinding troubles was pitch 3. About 2/3 of the way up there's a hard sequence with a couple fixed pins - go mostly straight up and very slightly right following the cleanest section of rock through this hard section, then afterwards traverse up and left over easy terrain to a big ledge. There weren't any decent gear placements on this traverse, but it was easy. You can see the first brand new bolt of the 4th pitch to the left of the ledge about 10' up. Aug 9, 2016
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
I whole hearty recommend a 70m rope. Reason is if you decide to rap off after the first pitch you will need a 70m to reach the ground. And depending where you end the 3rd pitch, the 4th pitch could be quite long, 60 meters may just reach.

On the second pitch to exit the “big cave of flexing flakes” climb to its top apex where you will be able to climb the “short but sweet finger crack”. (Quotes from Nate Ball 12-Aug-2013 comment.) We did not find a use for a #3 cam on this pitch unless there was a spot near a non-flexing flake, which we did not see.

The third pitch is a long shallow dihedral. At an old piton near the top of the dihedral either continue up the dihedral or move right for an easier but dirty and unprotected face climbing to the same anchor in an alcove. Just below the alcove is a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree. This is where we belayed.

From the grassy, small tree ledge you can clearly see two arching to the right roofs. Pitch 4 traverses to the left of the arches to a rounded buttress. In traversing from the grassy, small tree ledge you will enter and exit the belay alcove that Nate Ball describes in his comment.

After the rounded buttress there are a number of possible routes to the final Young Warriors belay stance on the SE Corner. If you head too far to the left you may get on the upper part of Cloud Nine 5.9 or Elusive Element 5.10d. In any event pitch 4 is long roughly 60m, most out of sight (and maybe out of sound) of your belayer. And the final part is the only route finding issue we had and may include sparely protected 5.9+ friction slabs.

At the top of each pitch there is a bail point. The top of pitch 1 is a 110’ rap. At the top of the 2nd pitch head left on the ledge until an easy climb leads to the tree ledge of SE Corner and then either finish the SE Corner of if you know how to find the top of Jill’s Thrill, rap it. At the top of the 3rd pitch a short rap down from the belay alcove, or down and to the right from a small grassy ledge with a 5-foot tree on it, will being you to pitch 4 of the SE Corner route. For this you may have to leave gear for the rap and you will have to set up an anchor in mid-pitch of the SE Corner. Sep 17, 2016
Christopher Gian
Christopher Gian   California
Climbed this yesterday. Super fun. Route finding was a pain on 3rd, but I also found a few instances where I became a bit confused on pitch 4.

1. Straight forward. Go up, find two bolt anchor -- I think people use this as rappel. BETTER: climb slightly lower left to a bolt + piton -- belay here instead!

2. Fun pitch. Traverse left, go up. Reach the butt but hole. From here I placed smaller gear (c4 .5 and under). Go straight up. you'll see a tree, that's not where you want to go. Instead go right. Reach two bolt anchor. under a dihedral.

3. Dihedral pitch. sweet!! this is where the route finding difficulties may start. Be prepared for radio silence as you won't be able to hear your partner. Go up a few moves with smaller cracks, blocky holds. Reach the dihedral and begin the stem fest. I saw two pitons in the dihedral.

You'll eventually reach a grassy patch with a tree on it.
Route finding trouble begins here: Here I became confused. Go up and left! (do not go up and right towards a single piton on slab and a purple cord as of 7/16/2017).

You'll reach an alcove. Look and deeper and you'll see a two "double-eye" pitons. Belay here.

4. Fun. Go around the corner, clip a few bolts. You'll eventually reach a point where further left you'll see a bolt if you peek around (this is off route) or you'll look up and see a corner seam where you can plug gear and with a single piton. Go up! You'll see a sweet slab with a slight over hang lip. Funny enough, Jim Opdyke was on Jill's Thrill with his buddies and helped me with the beta. Thanks JIM!

You can go straight up the slab for a harder move, or go left on a crack and start some 5.8 slab climbing. On the overhang this is a perfect place for an offset nut! Go up, and you'll reach a right trending ramp -- here's where i think I got lost and accidentally ended up on lost warrior.. I finished the ramp and ended up at a two bolt comfy anchor.

At this point I we climbed one additional pitch with gear size #1 and #3 .. shield-like rocks and scree here so watch out. I eventually landed to a flat area with scree, trees, and a switch back. I built a belay anchor on the tree and brought up my second. We then put on our shoes, scrambled up and towards the guard rail and went left down the hiking trail.

If someone can confirm whether we got onto the last 5.9 pitch of lost warrior that would be awesome!

Chris Jul 16, 2017
Hi Christopher -Regarding your question: "can someone confirm we were on the last pitch of Lost Warriors". I think so, sort of. There use to be a huge Doug Fir that terminated both Lost Warriors and a route Tim Olsen and Wayne Wallace put up years back called "The Mystery Trail". I think you could also terminate the SE Corner Lost Variation via that tree. Anyway, in 2010 a huge Winter gorge windstorm blew that massive fir tree right off the cliff, taking a bunch of rock with it where the roots pried up rock. The scar was @ 25' X 60'. Joseph Healy set up a Beacon Rock pre-Peregrine Falcon opening cleaning expedition, we split up into teams and he and I cleaned that section. JH put in a temporary anchor for us to work off of. It was decided to leave it in place. It wasn't a Lost Warriors anchor although I could see it used as that. It's not close to Young Warriors though, so you were way off and not on any route. When you climb the ramp, you turn left/up. There is a fixed pin and a bolt about 8 feet above that you will see if you are going the right way. Which it sounds like you weren't. In fact other than us toproping that scar, you most likely bagged the FA. As a minimum that calls for a few beers, a retelling of the adventure you had and a name:-)

We got all the loose crap off so no one would get kilt, pretty happy about that. Brutal work. But like a couple of lamo's (tired ones), we left that anchor you found abandoned. Oct 12, 2017
Carpinteria, CA
tshapiro1182   Carpinteria, CA
Update - 7/22/2018

Climbed this today - great line.

Top of pitch 3 was confusing - after crux dihedral with 2 fixed pins, climb up and left to a grassy ledge then KEEP CLIMBING up and left to the 2nd ledge where two fixed pins are hidden deep in the back of the alcove. Belay from here for P4

No trees on either ledge, just some small bushes.

The rest of the route was pretty easy to follow Jul 22, 2018
Healyje   PDX
The two-bolt anchor you see at the top of p1 is no longer the anchor you want to go to. There used to be a big ledge under it which is not longer there. Instead, at the top of the pitch, stay left and go up the dihedral to a ledge where you'll find the anchor which consists of a low bolt and a high angle pin (leash the bolt, extend a draw off the pin and clove it). Also extend another draw from the biner on the pin and redirect the rope through it down to your partner which will make belaying a lot easier.

P.S. Maybe both my Maxim 60m ropes are long, but I make it to the ground from the p1 anchor with either of them (yours may not I suppose, so pay attention to the last bit of the rappel and you can transition to downclimbing). Oct 15, 2018
Alex Fisher
Portland, Oregon
Alex Fisher   Portland, Oregon
Climbed this for the first time a few days ago. Super fun route, and consistent climbing throughout. I won't repeat all of the same notes below (which were super helpful), but I wanted to point one thing out that could avoid confusion for future parties.

P3 is straight-forward for the first 2/3 or so, but got a little confusing toward the top. This is because there's a new(?) line about 10-15' to the right of P3 with a handful of bolts and a bolted anchor (and then more bolts above that). The anchor of this separate route is about 30-40' below and to the right of the grassy ledge that you're aiming for if you're on YW (it's basically just above and to the right of the dihedral crux). Don't get sucked into this route like I did!! Instead, clip the pin that's midway up the slabby dihedral, pull this crux, and continue straight up over a series of grassy ledges on easy/mostly solid terrain. It's there that you'll find the belay ledge described in the route description.

The rest of the route is pretty straight-forward. Oct 16, 2018