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Areas in Beacon Rock

Beacon Rock Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Northwest Face 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8
South Face 47 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 52
West Face 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Beacon Rock is a lone 850' basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge. As such, it is an obvious destination for Portland climbers seeking adventurous and bold traditional climbing opportunities. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of the cliff which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guidebook.

Closures

The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round, however...

South Face
Closed from Feb. 1st - July 15th every year due to peregrine falcon nesting. The access trail is also closed. There is a tumultuous history between the climbing community and land managers around this issue. This is in the process of being renegotiated, but in the meantime please respect the closure. If you have an interest in helping with the process, contact the Mazamas and/or the Access Fund.

East Face
Permanently closed for the protection of rare species, as well as "cultural and historical resources." No established routes.

Northwest Face
Currently closed year-round due to a dead and hanging tree that needs to be removed by a professional arborist. This is in the process of being taken care of. In the meantime, please respect the closure.

West Face
Currently the only section open year-round. Contains a few recently-developed routes, including one that accesses the "Upper West Face" which includes routes like Lay Lady Lay and Rip City.

Getting There

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itÂ’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beacon Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 115
South East Corner
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Little Wing
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Cruisin'
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Free for All
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Right Gull
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 46
Jill's Thrill
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Young Warriors
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Free For All, Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Windsurfer
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Blownout
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dast…
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Blood, Sweat, and Smears
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Free for Some
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Pipeline
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Windwalker
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South East Corner S Face
 115
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
Little Wing S Face
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cruisin' S Face
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Free for All S Face
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Right Gull S Face
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Jill's Thrill S Face
 46
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Young Warriors S Face
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Free For All, Direct S Face
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Windsurfer S Face
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blownout S Face
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Link-up: Free for All/Dod'… S Face
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Blood, Sweat, and Smears S Face
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Free for Some S Face
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pipeline S Face
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Windwalker S Face
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Beacon Rock »

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Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.

The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris. Jan 23, 2006
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure! Aug 6, 2011
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
When we started our exploration of the area, Broughton Bluff seemed to have the most/best reviews. After climbing there for a couple of sessions we decided to check out beacon since my girlfriend/climbing partner is from the area and it serves as a multi faceted attraction. We started up the famous corner route and enjoyed the summit for the first time. We then climbed one more pitch(Flying Dutchman) before calling it a day. Hands down better than Bloughton and I recommend Beacon Rock highly if visiting this area. I'm stoked to go see more of the climbing offered there! Aug 21, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Check the weather before you head out. A windy day creates dangerous conditions on the south face. We were out there today in 30-40mph gusts which severely limited communication and brought frigid cold. Oct 30, 2017

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