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Areas in Beacon Rock

Beacon Rock Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Northwest Face 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
South Face 48 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 53
West Face 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Description

Beacon Rock is a lone 850' basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge. As such, it is an obvious destination for Portland climbers seeking adventurous and bold traditional climbing opportunities. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the west side of the cliff which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guidebook.

Closures

The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round. However...

South Face
Closed from Feb. 1st - July 15th depending on peregrine falcon nesting. The access trail is also closed. As of 2017, there is a new Climbing Management Plan that allows for more access in the future to the south side. This is in the process of being negotiated, but in the meantime please respect the closure. If you have an interest in helping with the process, contact the Mazamas and/or the Access Fund.

East Face
Closed for the protection of plant species under the order of WA Dept. of Natural Resources.  There are some established routes on the East Face but have been lost in time. This area is also under consideration by WA State Parks for potential opening in years to come depending on new plant species surveys.  

Northwest Face
Only the routes Stone Soup and Smoke Signals are open on North/NW Side.  Routes such as the Spike Route, Genesis, Burning Calves and Siege Tactics have been closed since November 2015 due to a dead and hanging tree that needs to be removed by a professional arborist. Thanks to the American Alpine Club, funding via the Cornerstone Conservation Grant is available to hire an arborist to cut down the snag.  In the meantime, please respect the closure.

West Face
High rockfall potential!  Wear helmets and watch for poison oak.  Access was restored to this area in 2018 with the update of the Climbing Management Plan. The west side contains eight new routes that can be accessed ground up.  Use the climber trail on the NW/West side of the rock.  Look for a faint trail that starts to the right side of the main hiker trail just past the "Weed Seed" station and small bridge.  Follow the climber trail briefly through the forest and look for cairns as you enter the boulder field.  An upper and lower trail cuts directly to the base of the new routes and some crude belay platforms have been constructed.  

Lower down on the west side, the route Labyrinth allows provides access to the Southwest Face (not part of the South Face closure) which includes routes like Hard Times, Rip City and Lay Lady Lay. Unfortunately, poison oak plagues these routes. 

Getting There

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itÂ’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

75 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beacon Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 139
South East Corner
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Little Wing
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Cruisin'
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Free for All
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
 15
Right Gull
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 48
Jill's Thrill
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Young Warriors
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Free For All, Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Windsurfer
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Blownout
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dast…
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Blood, Sweat, and Smears
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
The Steamboat Captain's Dream
Trad 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Free for Some
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Pipeline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South East Corner S Face
 139
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Little Wing S Face
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cruisin' S Face
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Free for All S Face
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Right Gull S Face
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Jill's Thrill S Face
 48
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Young Warriors S Face
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Free For All, Direct S Face
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Windsurfer S Face
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blownout S Face
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Link-up: Free for All/Dod'… S Face
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Blood, Sweat, and Smears S Face
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
The Steamboat Captain's Dream Northwest Face
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
Free for Some S Face
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pipeline S Face
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Beacon Rock »

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Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.

The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris. Jan 23, 2006
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure! Aug 6, 2011
Jason Kevin
Munds Park, AZ
Jason Kevin   Munds Park, AZ
When we started our exploration of the area, Broughton Bluff seemed to have the most/best reviews. After climbing there for a couple of sessions we decided to check out beacon since my girlfriend/climbing partner is from the area and it serves as a multi faceted attraction. We started up the famous corner route and enjoyed the summit for the first time. We then climbed one more pitch(Flying Dutchman) before calling it a day. Hands down better than Bloughton and I recommend Beacon Rock highly if visiting this area. I'm stoked to go see more of the climbing offered there! Aug 21, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Check the weather before you head out. A windy day creates dangerous conditions on the south face. We were out there today in 30-40mph gusts which severely limited communication and brought frigid cold. Oct 30, 2017

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