Elevation: 729 ft
GPS: 45.627, -122.021 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 148,350 total · 850/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006 with improvements by Adam Baylor and 2 others
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces Details

Description

Beacon Rock is a lone 850' basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge. As such, it is an obvious destination for Portland climbers seeking adventurous and bold traditional climbing opportunities. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the west side of the cliff which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guidebook.

Closures

The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st - July 15th, but may be lifted early depending on when the falcons fledge or if the nest site fails.  Please respect the closure. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.

The East Face is closed year round for the protection of potential threatened plant species. There are some established routes on the East Face but have been lost in time.

The Northwest Face is open year round after Washington State Park arborists successfully removed hazard trees in March 2020. Watch for poison oak. 

The West Face is open year round. Wear helmets due to rock fall hazard and watch for poison oak.  Access was restored to this area in 2018 with the update of the Climbing Management Plan. The west side contains new routes that can be accessed ground up.  Use the climber trail on the NW/West side of the rock.  Look for a faint trail that starts to the right side of the main hiker trail just past the "Weed Seed" station and small bridge.  Follow the climber trail briefly through the forest and look for cairns as you enter the boulder field.  An upper and lower trail cuts directly to the base of the new routes and some crude belay platforms have been constructed. Lower down on the west side, the route Labyrinth allows provides access to the Southwest Face (not part of the South Face closure) which includes routes like Hard Times, Rip City and Lay Lady Lay. Unfortunately, poison oak plagues these routes.

The 2017 updated Climbing Management Plan allows for adaptive, future management considerations of the South Face's seasonal raptor closure and East Face closure. Please respect all closures and restrictions and reach out to Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition, and Mazamas about how to partner and work with Washington State Parks on climbing management.

Getting There

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itÂ’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

97 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beacon Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 156
South East Corner
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 47
Little Wing
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Cruisin'
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Free for All
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
Jill's Thrill
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Young Warriors
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
 19
Right Gull
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
Free For All, Direct
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Windsurfer
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Bluebird
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 34
Blownout
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack Linkup
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
The Steamboat Captain's Dream
Trad 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Free for Some
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Borderline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South East Corner S Face
 156
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Little Wing S Face
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cruisin' S Face
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Free for All S Face
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Jill's Thrill S Face
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Young Warriors S Face
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Right Gull S Face
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Free For All, Direct S Face
 38
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Windsurfer S Face
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Bluebird S Face
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blownout S Face
 34
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack… S Face
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Steamboat Captain's Dream Northwest Face
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
Free for Some S Face
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Borderline S Face
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Beacon Rock »

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