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Batten Down The Hatches
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 30
votes
Routes in Northwest Face
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Arete in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Charted Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornercopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Prophets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forbidden Slab TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Genesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Takes a Village T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Maiden Voyage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pioneer/Iron Spike Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riptide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Siren's Call T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Torpedo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winters Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 45.62763, -122.02195 |
| FA: | Topher Dabrowski & Tom Purwins August 2021, FFA Topher, Bryan Smith, 9/4 P2 w Dan Leone and Stephen Shostek 06.2023, P3&4 w Mark Deffenbaugh 05.2025 |
| Page Views: | 1,472 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Topher Dabrowski on Aug 27, 2021 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
The first pitch of this route has a starboard/right and port/left side start since it is just that good, you'll want to do it twice (see pics).
Pitch 1 5.10b, 25m **** - The starboard or original start begins by climbing a small shield of rock on good holds to a left-leaning crack. The port side begins 10' left of the original line and follows a crack up and slightly right, also on good holds, joining the left-leaning crack about 15 or so feet up the wall.
Whichever start you choose, follow a left-leaning crack to a large pod. Move up and right through the pod on good edges, stepping out of the pod and following a good handrail up and right through the crux section. Once through the crux, climb the slab angling up and left using a good finger crack and edges until able to exit on the left side of the large block to the anchors. This pitch has great gear, multiple placement options, good rests, and is a friendly trad climb.
Pitch 2 5.8, 30m ** - Climb up to a ledge and then move through a stem box (crux) protected with a bolt. Exit the stem box onto a sloping ledge and then work your way up the obvious corner system until you are able to exit up a ramp to the right. Continue past a bolt and up onto a ledge, and find another bolt pointing the way up a series of good steps and edges. Move out left towards the arete, pass one more bolt, and turn the corner for a bit of exposure and a traverse to the anchors. Most of the climbing is in the 5.8 range with the exception of the crux, depending on your height.
Pitch 3, 5.6*, 15m - Move up and left across a slab to a set of blocky steps. Climb these steps, passing 2 bolts (black hangers) and finishing at the chain anchors on a big ledge that are shared with pitch 3 of The Steamboat Captain's Dream. Be careful of loose gravel/rock on the exit of this pitch, and remember there are likely climbers/hikers below.
Pitch 4, 5.8*** 29m - The fourth pitch climbs the larger corner crack system left of the belay station. It looks harder than it is, and both climbs and protects surprisingly well. Gear is mainly placed from good stances. Move left and climb up a flake to below a shallow roof. Move right to get around the roof on good holds and onto a ledge. Follow the large corner crack system to its top and exit back out left onto the face. A bolt will protect the mantle onto the large ledge. From the ledge, climb a double set of offwidth cracks past a bolt. The offwidth is well protected, and a thinner horizontal crack partway up offers a finger-sized cam placement. Pull over onto the final ledge and belay at the anchors on the left side of the buttress.
Descent - Rappel straight down to the anchors at the top of P3 of Charted Waters. Continue straight down for 3 more rappels.
If you are only climbing the first two pitches, you will rappel a different line by making two simple rappels down the face to reach the ground
Note - if you liked the first pitch of this route and want a bit more of a challenge, then the sister route, Red Sky At Night, just to the right of it, is a tad harder but of similar character.
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