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Routes in Northwest Face
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Arete in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Charted Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornercopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Prophets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forbidden Slab TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Genesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Takes a Village T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Maiden Voyage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pioneer/Iron Spike Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riptide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Siren's Call T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Torpedo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winters Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 45.62763, -122.02195 |
| FA: | Topher Dabrowski June 7 2023 with Chris Alexander and Dan Leone |
| Page Views: | 286 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Topher Dabrowski on Jun 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
This is a harder version of its brother route to the left, Batten Down the Hatches. Start a few feet right of the thin seam below the triangular pod. Climb up big holds and step left into the seam where you can find good small nuts in the old pin scars. Continue up the seam towards the triangular roof, and there is a nice 0.75 cam that can be placed behind an obvious handhold. Step left and find another bomber cam placement for the crux before moving up through good edges and finger locks. The crux is easier if you're tall and are able to reach through it to a good stance below another small overlap. Here, step right to find a crack that angles up and slightly leftward up the wall. This crack parallels the main crack of Batten Down the Hatches, takes thoughtful gear placements, and exits up the right side of a hanging dihedral.
This route has a defined crux and then continues to climb at a sustained but lower grade for the upper section. This route shares the same start as Forbidden Slab up to the triangular shallow roof.
Location
This route is located at the far west end of the main NW wall in between the start of Batten down the Hatches and Piracy.
Protection
Due to the shallow features, Totem, Master Cams, or other narrow head cams work well for many of the placements.
Camelot size equivalents 0.2 to 0.75 or black to green Totems
Doubles in 0.4 size or yellow Totems
DMM Walnuts and Offsets - small to medium sizes
10-12 draws
Note: The upper wall nut placements will benefit from extended draws
Descent: Rap the route or carry on with pitch 2 of Batten Down The Hatches
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