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Routes in Northwest Face
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Arete in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Charted Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cornercopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Prophets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forbidden Slab TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Genesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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It Takes a Village T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Maiden Voyage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pioneer/Iron Spike Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riptide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Rogue Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Siren's Call T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Torpedo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Walk The Plank T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Winters Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | TR, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 45.62763, -122.02195 |
| FA: | Robert McGown |
| Page Views: | 596 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Topher Dabrowski on May 19, 2021 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Climb the low-angled seam and face up to a pod using the thin seam with numerous pin scars for pro. Step right under the pod's shallow roof and move up towards the old piton scar. Continue up towards a second pin scar and once there, angle up and left heading towards a clean and unlikely headwall. Find your way through this steep slab to the top. This is a top rope only route.
Note that both the old pitons were removed from this route since they were engaged approximately an inch into the rock and were not adequate for lead falls - this route is now a top rope problem unless one desires to run-it-out after the last placement above the pod.
Rappel from the top of Piracy using the rap rings.
Backstory - Forbidden Slab was originally an aid line. There is clear evidence of the route being nailed especially through the starting seam where the prior piton scars now make beautiful thin nut placements. The original pitons used on the route were called stubbies and they had an average of 1" engagement with the rock (see pictures). These pitons would have likely blown out should they have experienced a lead fall of any significance. A conversation with Tim Olsen revealed that he and Wayne Wallace climbed the route on top rope after Bob McGowan opened up the line. Being on a top rope and anchored to the large tree above, Tim and Wayne continued up to the right of the second pin and exited via the easier crack system of Piracy to avoid a big swing; hence, this is what Tim recorded in the Portland Rock Guide as Forbidden Slab. Other evidence suggests that the actual route went left and followed the upper web of cracks now called Red Sky at Night. This would seem to be the logical extension from the original point of the second piton. This is further supported by the presence of two similar pitons that are located above the current anchor for the Red Sky at Night route. Since little was recorded, this is mainly speculation. To give the route a more appropriate line -given its name - a direct headwall variation is now recorded here as the route. Alternatively, feel free to take your own line!
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