All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Beacon Rock > Northwest Face

Genesis

Name: Genesis
Rating: 2.6

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Northwest Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arabia, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arete in the Sky S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Armada T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bermuda Triangle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Bertrand, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Charted Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Cornercopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crossing Wakes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	False Prophets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Forbidden Slab TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Genesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Higher Ground T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	It Takes a Village T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
	Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Maiden Voyage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pioneer/Iron Spike Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Riptide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Rogue Wave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Siren's Call T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
	Torpedo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Walk The Plank T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Winters Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	45.62763, -122.02195
FA:	P1: Jim Opdyke 2000 P2: Jeff Thomas 8.11.2011 P3: J. Thomas & Rayce Boucher 8-9-2011
Page Views:	1,389 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Adam Baylor on Oct 28, 2018 · Updates
Admins:	Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details

The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.

The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.

The NW face and West face routes remain open.

See Closure section below for more details.

Description

Genesis follows a corner and low-angle slabs and ledges to Big Tree Ledge.

P1 5.8, 30m, 2 bolts - Ascend the slab by climbing the left-hand corner using edges and ledges to find the easiest terrain. There are good nut slots on the side walls for protection. The crux is a low-angle section after the second bolt and before the final anchor ledge. Look for small nut placements near an old pin scar, or even use a Ball Nut! There is no reason to suggest it is run out as there are several good nut and cam placements between the bolts.

P2 5.10a, 25m 6 bolts - Move left of the main buttress and step up to reach the first bolt. Continue up the left side of the buttress until able to step right, following good edges. Continue climbing up thin smears and edges past more bolts to a blocky alcove. Easier climbing from the alcove leads to a bolted belay station just above a large Douglas Fir tree; this is Big Tree Ledge.

P3 5.10a, 35m 7 bolts - Move right from the belay and around the nose of the buttress until you can see the first two bolts. The first bolt is somewhat hidden around the far side of the arete. Climb the buttress past the first two bolts on thin holds until on a large ledge. Step up and right and follow the edge of the slab past more bolts to an overlap. Continue along the left side of the slab to the large Douglas Fir tree. The runout from the last bolt is no longer an issue, and the higher you climb, the easier it gets.

Rappel the route with a 70m rope.

First ascent of P1-3 8.15.2011 Jeff Thomas & Steve Wolford

Location

You can approach by following the climbers' trail along the base of the NW Face from the parking lot. After ~100 yards and past the large arching roof feature, you'll ascend a small hill. On the other side of the hill, you'll find a large flat boulder. Continue along the wall another 50-60' until you find a relatively clean slab rising between mossy and vegetated sections.