Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Northwest Face
|Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Pioneer (Spike) Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Smoke Signals T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||608 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Jonathan Croom on Apr 11, 2016|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
All faces of Beacon Rock with the exception of “Stone Soup” on the northwest face are closed for all technical rock climbing effective Feb. 1, 2017, due to peregrine falcon nesting season. Climbers must rappel down ";Stone Soup"; when finished, no walk-off access is currently available. The climber's trail also is closed for all access effective Feb. 1, 2017. The approximate date of when climbing will reopen is around the middle of July 2017 for select areas. The east face is permanently closed for the protection of rare species, cultural and historical resources. The hiking trail to the top of Beacon Rock is open year round.
DescriptionThis route was established as a practice aid route close to Portland. Recently this route was freed, starting via Smoke Signals. See below the Aid climbing description for the Free climbing description and grades.
Pitch by pitch aid descriptions edited 31 March 2017, after I did the route again.
Pitch 1: Approximately 30 m, 5.7 C1. Start up the slab about 100 feet right of the climbing/no climbing boundary. The first pitch begins with some free climbing and progresses into aid about half way up. Finish at a bolted belay on a grassy ledge.
Pitch 2: Approximately 30 m, C1F. Continue up a corner system, past a tree and follow pins and a bolt to an arching overhang, and another bolt. Step right past a tree with tat and progress up a bolted head wall to a 3 bolt belay. Mostly small gear on this pitch, and lots of fixed pins and bolts.
Pitch 3: 25m 5.8ish Move the belay to above the big tree on the ledge at one bolt. Continue up the corner right of the bolt and through a series of ledges. Traverse left behind a large tree and continue left and up a seriously bushy ramp. Behind the bush is a double off-width crack with a bolt at the start. Belay from atop of these cracks using a the first bolts of pitch 4 bolt ladder.
Pitch 4: 15m C0 Bolt ladder, with one hook move between bolts if you can't reach. Three bolt belay at the top.
Pitch 5: 30m 5.6 C1F From the belay move thru easy slabby terrain clipping pins and bolts and following a fixed line to a bolt and tree. Head strait up on bolts and pins to a small roof. A couple free moves and bolts get you to a pair of bolts with chains at a hanging belay.
Pitch 6: 25m 5.8 C1 From the hanging belay, head strait up on gear to a bolt, or head right for more free climbing. Both join together for loose free and C0 climbing to the final anchors.
Pitch 7: 30m Head up along 3rd class terrain and a few 5th class steps to the hikers trail on top. There are a couple bolts along the way and more fixed rope.
FREE CLIMBING OPTION
This route was free climbed from pitch 2 to pitch 7 in spring of 2016 in conjunction with the Smoke Signals route start. Here are the details if free climbing the route.
Pitch 1&2: See Smoke Signals description.
Pitch 3 5.8 25m: Move the belay to above the big tree on the ledge. Continue up the short right facing corner right of the bolt and through a series of ledges. Traverse left along a ledge, behind a large tree and continue left and up towards a bush at the top of the ramp. Climb a double off-width crack with a bolt at the start. Belay from atop of these cracks using the anchor on the bolt ladder of pitch 4 and a pin.
Pitch 4 5.10d 25m: Ascend a short crack right of the bolt ladder and then traverse left along a hand ledge back to the bolt line. Follow the upper half of the bolt ladder crimping on small edges and pull onto the large Swiss Family Ledge system. Continue following the low fifth class slab steps up and rightward passing a pin and a few more bolts until you reach a belay platform below the steep arete.
Pitch 5 5.11a 30m: Head strait up the arete following a line of bolts and pins to a small roof. Pull the roof on the left and continue up a short crack to a set of anchors at a hanging belay.
Pitch 6 5.9 25m: From the hanging belay, move slightly right and head up a crack on gear passing a few bolts, a pin and two more bolts. Be extremely careful of the blocks that you are climbing on as many are loose time bombs which could let loose at any time. Reach the final anchors
Pitch 7 4th 30m: Follow easy terrain along the ridge crest until you reach the fence adjacent to the summit trail. Ignore the final set of anchors along the way.
ProtectionAll anchors are good bolts. There are also a generous number of protection bolts on the pitches. Goes clean with a bunch of fixed pins, and even if they blew you can probably find a way up on clean gear.
Thanks to the pins and bolts, you don't need lots of gear to climb this route. Bring doubles from tiny through .5 C4, one or two .75, and one each 1 through 3. Didn't have to have the 3. I mostly placed small cams, grey-red C3. Bring at least one hook. I placed only one nut, but there was plenty of opportunity to place them. Offset nuts are helpful, offset cams are not useful. I did not find a large cam at all necessary in the offwidth, but if it was wet a 5 or 6 would make it easier. Don't think a 4 would help too much.