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Gitmo Love Machine
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Northwest Face
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Batten Down The Hatches T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Calves T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Charted Waters T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dorian's Dilemma T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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False Profits T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fireballs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forbidden Slab TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Full Steam Ahead T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Genesis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gitmo Love Machine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Case T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jackie Treehorn's Jungle Gym of Joyous Delights T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Lost at Sea T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pioneer (Spike) Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Piracy T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasure Cruise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Sky at Night T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Riptide S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Siege Tactics T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Smoke On the Water T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Smoke Signals T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Steamboat Captain's Dream, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Stowaway T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Shane Polizzano, Dave Sowerby, Tymun Abbott 6/1/2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,453 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | orclimber on Jun 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Burl through juggy, overhanging roof moves off ground and directly into the crux sequence on thin holds. Continue through delicate face climbing into the second crux roof. Runout climbing on easier holds, one final roof sequence at 70ft and moderate face climbing to anchor.
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