Avg: 3.7 from 36 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas and Ken Currens, 1976|
|Page Views:||4,693 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Thomas d'Aquin on Jul 3, 2011|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
P1: The original approach was to traverse in from the left, up the grassy ledges below Wild Turkeys. Nowadays everyone climbs Blownout Direct (5.9+). To do it this way, climb the detached flake up to and around the tree to a ledge. Stem between the pillars and move into the technical seam with three pitons to a stance. Go straight up to a zig-zagging hand crack that takes you to the belay "in a protected corner beneath the great upper dihedral."
P2: 100 feet of dihedral! Stems, chimney moves, lieback, all you ever wanted! Strenuous bulge at the top. Beacon inside corner climbing at its finest.