Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Scott Woolums, Terry Yates, Robert McGown, Summer 1977|
|Page Views:||562 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Aug 18, 2017|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
Start up just left of the tunnel and make fun moves on jugs before reaching a slight left-trending crack system. At a small pod, clip the quick-link on a piton (solid) and then commence up the thin seam. Fun body positions and holds you might have to search for. Small nuts work well through here. Clip another solid piton and keep firing, enjoying the cool slopey edges. Plug a cam or two near the top, make a strenuous final pull and you're on the anchor ledge. Odd anchor bolt placement requires a final easy move to reach.
Extension into Bluebird : Continue up and to the right into the shattered flakes. Climb gingerly here - it is eerie but easy. Mount the pillar/flake, belay up your partner, and continue up Bluebird.