Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: FFA Matt Spohn, with Alex Parker and Tim Bemrich. FA of Smooth Dancer pitch Alan Kearney, Les Nugent, Malcolm Ulrich 1974
Page Views: 1,088 total · 30/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Sep 25, 2018
Admins: Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details


This five pitch climb ascends the prominent south face of Beacon Rock. The second pitch is one of the best pitches you will ever climb.  The entire route requires proficiency in almost every style of climbing and the ability to stay calm while placing gear through hard sequences. While the first 40 feet of the route is nothing to write home about, the remainder of the climb is one of the best hard multi-pitches around Oregon and Washington. Get on it!

Pitch 1: 11c PG-13 40m
Begin at the second tunnel and walk uphill to the small tree. Clip bolt and climb up to the questionable underclings and another bolt.  Utilize side-pulls to get to a small ledge below “the tube.” Stem and smear for three bolts.  Move up through some wild face moves and aretes, and out a small overhang. Eventually pull into another stem and a heartbreaker move. Pitch takes a single rack (including 00 Metolius) and Bolts. (May want doubles in #1 & #2 Metolius). I rappelled off the end of my rope while cleaning this pitch. Don't forget to tie knots - always!

Smooth Dancer, Pitch 2: 12ish. 35m (This pitch was established via aid in 1974, see above).
Bouldery moves from the anchor lead into the spectacular dihedral above. Palm, stem, and smear up what is one of the best pitches in Oregon. This pitch is incredible - really, really incredible.  Takes single set of stoppers, #1-#5 Metolius, and Bolts. (Save a medium sized stopper for between the last two bolts).

Anchor Shift, Pitch 3: 5.6. 20m
Climb left through a series of ledges and then up a short ramp to gain the large ledge.

Thick Blue Squiggle, Pitch 4: 12ish. 35m
Climb a thin seam through bolts up to the Rocker Locker move.  More face, crack, and bolts, as well as a few gear placements, will take you to a short, steep lie-back. The pump builds. Then ascend the amazingly textured slab, veering left to the "Point." Bolts, and Metolius cams from #1 - #5. (Astro Nuts #6 - #7 or comparable for the Brassy Move).

Pitch 5: 11a. 35m
Traverse right across the bushy ledge and head up through ancient, closely spaced bolts.  Eventually, these will be replaced. End on the trail. Scary, rusty bolts and a small assortment of cams. This pitch has been done previously (aid or free?), but I couldn't find any history on it.  It’s an exciting cap to an exciting route.


Begin just left of the second tunnel. 


Gear and bolts