Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||FFA Matt Spohn, with Alex Parker and Tim Bemrich. FA of Smooth Dancer pitch Alan Kearney, Les Nugent, Malcolm Ulrich 1974|
|Page Views:||746 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||peachy spohn on Sep 25, 2018|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
Pitch 1: 11c PG-13 40m
Begin at the second tunnel and walk uphill to the small tree. Clip bolt and climb up to the questionable underclings and another bolt. Utilize side-pulls to get to a small ledge below “the tube.” Stem and smear for three bolts. Move up through some wild face moves and aretes, and out a small overhang. Eventually pull into another stem and a heartbreaker move. Pitch takes a single rack (including 00 Metolius) and Bolts. (May want doubles in #1 & #2 Metolius). I rappelled off the end of my rope while cleaning this pitch. Don't forget to tie knots - always!
Smooth Dancer, Pitch 2: 12ish. 35m (This pitch was established via aid in 1974, see above).
Bouldery moves from the anchor lead into the spectacular dihedral above. Palm, stem, and smear up what is one of the best pitches in Oregon. This pitch is incredible - really, really incredible. Takes single set of stoppers, #1-#5 Metolius, and Bolts. (Save a medium sized stopper for between the last two bolts).
Anchor Shift, Pitch 3: 5.6. 20m
Climb left through a series of ledges and then up a short ramp to gain the large ledge.
Thick Blue Squiggle, Pitch 4: 12ish. 35m
Climb a thin seam through bolts up to the Rocker Locker move. More face, crack, and bolts, as well as a few gear placements, will take you to a short, steep lie-back. The pump builds. Then ascend the amazingly textured slab, veering left to the "Point." Bolts, and Metolius cams from #1 - #5. (Astro Nuts #6 - #7 or comparable for the Brassy Move).
Pitch 5: 11a. 35m
Traverse right across the bushy ledge and head up through ancient, closely spaced bolts. Eventually, these will be replaced. End on the trail. Scary, rusty bolts and a small assortment of cams. This pitch has been done previously (aid or free?), but I couldn't find any history on it. It’s an exciting cap to an exciting route.