All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Beacon Rock > S Face

Whit's Wall

Name: Whit's Wall
Rating: 2.0

5.12c/d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British R

Routes in South Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	[Redacted] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
	Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
	Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
	Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA:	FFA Matt Spohn with Andrew Traylor; 1st Pitch (Rhythm Method) Bill Coe with Jim Opdyke; 2nd Pitch Joe Healy
Page Views:	991 total · 22/month
Shared By:	peachy spohn on Sep 4, 2020
Admins:	Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details

The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.

The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.

The NW face and West face routes remain open.

See Closure section below for more details.

Description

This route has been a long-standing project and was originally envisioned by prominent Beacon climber, Joe Healy. His write up about a bold, hard and slightly crazy line captivated me and has stayed in the back of my mind. Hard roofs, loose blocks and not a lot of pro. Healy had attempted pitch 3 previously. Andrew Traylor and I began a ground up ascent to finish off this route. We placed two bolts on lead and one anchor for pitch 3.

Pitch 1: 5.7 Begin up Rhythm Method, a nicely bolted face climb.

Pitch 2: 5.10+ R From the Rhythm Method anchor, head right and then up into the large dihedral system. Quoting Joe's description, "goes up the right facing dihedral through two roofs exiting left to an anchor on the face once the dihedral starts to slant right." It's a long pitch with some good climbing highlighted by runouts (there is one bolt, two pitons and a fixed stopper/ball nut on this pitch). It shouldn't be taken lightly. Serious fall potential and one enormous loose block after the fixed stopper and ball nut makes for a spooky lead.

Pitch 3: 12 c/d R Head right (bolt) and then venture up some not so inspiring rock, clipping a few pitons and intermittent gear. Under the roof the rock quality improves. Rest up for some exciting climbing (jam/chimney/stem/boulder) and unleash your wild grunts for the last hard move out the lip. Over the lip, work your way up the Texas Death Flake and then climb right (save a #4 Metolius for up here). Continue up and eventually back left to a bolted anchor about 30 feet above the lip. The crux section of this pitch is primo!

Pitch 4: 11a Climb straight up and clip a bolt. Pull up onto the face and then traverse left (fun). Head up and eventually step around the buttress. Some mossy climbing (hopefully I'll get back to clean this section) leads up a ramp and then to a one bolt anchor (easily supplemented with gear). You've met up with Lost Warriors at this belay stance.

Pitch 5: 11a From this anchor, go up and gain access to the slab above. Mantle onto it and traverse right (super cool!). Crux culminates with a fun mantle onto the summit ridge - airy and fantastic! We found an old piton up here, but are unsure if this section of amazing rock was ever freed? Short but amazing.

Continue up ridge to the climbers trail - about 350 feet.

Location

Above Rhythm Method

Protection

Pitch 1: Bolts
Pitch 2: Set of stoppers, Metolius cams from 0-8
Pitch 3: One bolt, stoppers, Metolius cams 00-8 and BD 3
Pitch 4: One bolt, Metolius cams 0-8
Pitch 5: Stoppers, Metolius cams 1-5