Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: FFA Matt Spohn with Andrew Traylor; 1st Pitch (Rhythm Method) Bill Coe with Jim Opdyke; 2nd Pitch Joe Healy
Page Views: 551 total · 51/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Sep 4, 2020
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) Details

Description

This route has been a long-standing project and was originally envisioned by prominent Beacon climber, Joe Healy. His write up about a bold, hard and slightly crazy line captivated me and has stayed in the back of my mind. Hard roofs, loose blocks and not a lot of pro. Healy had attempted pitch 3 previously. Andrew Traylor and I began a ground up ascent to finish off this route. We placed two bolts on lead and one anchor for pitch 3. 

Pitch 1: 5.7 Begin up Rhythm Method, a nicely bolted face climb.

Pitch 2: 5.10+ R From the Rhythm Method anchor, head right and then up into the large dihedral system. Quoting Joe's description, "goes up the right facing dihedral through two roofs exiting left to an anchor on the face once the dihedral starts to slant right." It's a long pitch with some good climbing highlighted by runouts (there is one bolt, two pitons and a fixed stopper/ball nut on this pitch). It shouldn't be taken lightly. Serious fall potential and one enormous loose block after the fixed stopper and ball nut makes for a spooky lead. 

Pitch 3: 12 c/d R Head right (bolt) and then venture up some not so inspiring rock, clipping a few pitons and intermittent gear. Under the roof the rock quality improves. Rest up for some exciting climbing (jam/chimney/stem/boulder) and unleash your wild grunts for the last hard move out the lip. Over the lip, work your way up the Texas Death Flake and then climb right (save a #4 Metolius for up here). Continue up and eventually back left to a bolted anchor about 30 feet above the lip. The crux section of this pitch is primo!

Pitch 4: 11a Climb straight up and clip a bolt. Pull up onto the face and then traverse left (fun). Head up and eventually step around the buttress. Some mossy climbing (hopefully I'll get back to clean this section) leads up a ramp and then to a one bolt anchor (easily supplemented with gear). You've met up with Lost Warriors at this belay stance.

Pitch 5: 11a From this anchor, go up and gain access to the slab above. Mantle onto it and traverse right (super cool!). Crux culminates with a fun mantle onto the summit ridge - airy and fantastic! We found an old piton up here, but are unsure if this section of amazing rock was ever freed? Short but amazing.

Continue up ridge to the climbers trail - about 350 feet.

Location

Above Rhythm Method

Protection

Pitch 1: Bolts
Pitch 2: Set of stoppers, Metolius cams from 0-8
Pitch 3: One bolt, stoppers, Metolius cams 00-8 and BD 3
Pitch 4: One bolt, Metolius cams 0-8
Pitch 5: Stoppers, Metolius cams 1-5

Photos