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Routes in South Face
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3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beekeeper's Apprentice, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bellflower, The T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bladerunner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blownout T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blownout (to 1st anchor) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bluebird T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Boardwalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cloud Nine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crazy Horse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Double, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Dod's Dastardly Jam T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire & Ice T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Time T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flying Circus T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Free for All T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Ground Zero T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jensen's Ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Wing T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Local Access Only T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Maiden's Escape, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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North Country T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Pink Panther, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Gull T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rockmaster T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roll On Columbia T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Rookie Nookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face | 2827 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Spring Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stardust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Steppenwolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunrise Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tennessee Walker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Uprising T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whit's Wall T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 45.6268, -122.01974 |
| FA: | FFA Matt Spohn, w/ help from Tim Bemrich, Phoebe Wu, Andrew Traylor, Bill Coe, Matt Stevens |
| Page Views: | 834 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | peachy spohn on Oct 4, 2021 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
Best multi-pitch in Oregon and Washington? I'd wager. An oh-so-scenic position. Nearly as tall as that stuff-a-mcguff in the North Cascades. Close to home (so you can take your time pooping in the morning). And a true test-piece of skills: finger-locks, hand jams, lie-backin', arete hugging, crimps and a little "Fall of Man" runout Oh My!
Begin up the amazing Free for All Direct (p1 5.8/10a (WTF does this mean)) and then veer into the impeccable Dod's Jam (p2 10c) to get to Ms. Big Ledge.
From here, head up the Norseman (the 6-bolt Cartier masterpiece) but instead of clipping the anchors just keep on trucking past 8 more bolts for the crème-de-la-crème of rock wrestling to make the “Realization” of the Pacific Northwest. Close your eyes you Bat Wall boulderers because this is a freaking ménage à trois between heart-thumping vistas, primo rock and hardddd climbing. Follow side pulls and use body tension until you find yourself at a wild bulge capped by a lil’ huck to a big happy jug. Yippee! you’ve arrived at Beacon’s “Thank God Ledge.” Relax, breathe the pristine Columbia air and let the butt-puckering exposure blow your mind. Try your best to depump your limp noodle arms ‘cause the business is about to start. Clip the next bolt and hope your ape-index is monkey as you arete slap, toe hook and watch that big loop of slack get gut churning. Endurance or prayer: you choose, but it’s a wild ride if you biff it. Pull onto the slab (p3 13c) and enjoy one of Beacon’s finest stances—RKS Ledge.
Next up: the short but scrappy 11b that’ll have you questioning your accumulation of French’s Dome ticks. “Yeah, I climb hard.” Mmmmhmmmm I bet you do. Come talk to me after you do this pitch. Congrats! You’ve arrived at Stoneworks Ledge.
(p5) is 5.7 to the top (watch out for the guillotines).
Welcome to North Country.
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