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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,775 total, 21/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A testpiece of Beacon climbing. Free for Some starts in the thin crack to the right of the Windsurfer corner. Hard moves off the ground with the crux coming down low has led to more than one injured climber. Climb up the gradually widening crack to an intermediate anchor or continue up to a ledge and bolted anchors with chains.

70m rope or two ropes required to lower or rappel from the upper anchor.

Location

Located to the right of Windsurfer this obviously nice crack has a characteristic zig-zag feature 20ft off the deck. A two rope rappel can get you all the way down or use intermediate anchors and two single rope raps.

Protection

Standard rack including small wires (offset aliens useful). The are sometimes a few fixed pins on the route.

Photos

Stephen Sh
Portland
Stephen Sh   Portland
If you climb the upper portion of this route to the ledge above the second half, be extremely careful about the final 5’ of climbing. The block that you’ll be jamming is loose and sits on a down-sloping surface. It wobbles slightly when pressured and has moved outward and down approx. 1.5 inches during the 2016 season. Aug 8, 2016
William Rhyne
Casper, Wyoming
  5.11a
William Rhyne   Casper, Wyoming
  5.11a
Red point flashed this this line last night 9-14-14 (not to sure its 180feet long). Olds pins are easily backed up with tiny cams. Didn't expect the top to pack as much punch as it does! highly recommended great route! Sep 15, 2014
One 70 meter rope will get you off if you swing left at the base to higher ground, instead of having to use 2 ropes. Nov 30, 2013
In the early 1980s there was a solid fixed pin at the crux which made the lead somewhat easier. Then someone removed the pin claiming that RPs can be used. This is true, but putting a QD on a pin uses much less energy than fiddling with RPs! Sep 21, 2013
Dan Flynn   MA  
Fingertips only for me... super aesthetic line, have to come back for the send! Aug 5, 2012
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.11a
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.11a
The crux of this route feels very stout for those of us with fat fingers. I couldn't get anything out of the chalked seam. Great route though! Dec 14, 2011
slim

  5.11a PG13
slim    
  5.11a PG13
kind of finnicky gear at the crux, with a blade flake sticking up out of the ground to land on. take your time and make sure you have good gear. great route. Aug 8, 2011