Avg: 3.1 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FA '65 Dean Caldwell, Chuck Brown FFA '72 Dean Fry|
|Page Views:||1,774 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Sep 17, 2014 with 2 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a
P1: Approach by climbing SE Corner to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. 25m
P2: Move down and left, stepping around a corner to a ledge with a piton. Clip it and make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m
P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up follow an offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 25m
P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 30m
RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9
P1: Climb Little Wing and link into the second pitch from the piton ledge: make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 40m
P2: Climb the offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 15m
P3: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean finger crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this straight up to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m