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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA '65 Dean Caldwell, Chuck Brown FFA '72 Dean Fry
Page Views: 788 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 17, 2014 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

One of the earliest lines at Beacon, and considered a super-classic of the area. Quite adventurous for the grade, though the climbing itself is short and scrappy. The route can be climbed in different ways but locals have pieced together an ideal variation which requires a bit more gear. Both the original and alternative routes are described below.


RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a

P1: Approach by climbing SE Corner to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. 25m

P2: Move down and left, stepping around a corner to a ledge with a piton. Clip it and make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m

P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up follow an offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 25m

P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 30m


RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9

P1: Climb Little Wing and link into the second pitch from the piton ledge: make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 40m

P2: Climb the offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 15m

This can be linked with the next pitch if you use some looong runners.

P3: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean finger crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this straight up to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m

Location

Above and left of Little Wing, step across the pillar at the start of Fear of Flying

Protection

Gear to 4" (in spite of what Olson says)
Bring doubles of everything if linking pitches

Photos

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BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
Our route: P1:Little Wing-Vulcan's Variation- Belay. P2 Left hand crack-Muriel's-Grassy Ledge topout. Having two #4's would have been nice. Jul 23, 2016
David J. Thompson
Hood River
 
David J. Thompson   Hood River
 
5.10a OR 5.8 (A0). I recommend the 10a route, which I believe is the original. Don't believe everything Olson says. Oct 23, 2014