Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA '65 Dean Caldwell, Chuck Brown FFA '72 Dean Fry
Page Views: 1,160 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 17, 2014 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

One of the earliest lines at Beacon, and considered a super-classic of the area. Quite adventurous for the grade, though the climbing itself is short and scrappy. The route can be climbed in different ways but locals have pieced together an ideal variation which requires a bit more gear. Both the original and alternative routes are described below.

RIGHT GULL ORIGINAL, 5.10a

P1: Approach by climbing SE Corner to Snag Ledge's bolted anchor. 25m

P2: Move down and left, stepping around a corner to a ledge with a piton. Clip it and make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. Make another more airy step across to the next pillar and belay at the bolted anchors. 25m

P3: Climb up the thin crack on the right of the belay, protecting it early with small gear and passing a piton to a large ledge. Move slightly right and up follow an offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 25m

P4: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Climb past the tree and into another easier layback right facing corner. Another short step takes you to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 30m

RIGHT GULL ALTERNATE VARIATIONS 5.9

P1: Climb Little Wing and link into the second pitch from the piton ledge: make an airy step across to the next pillar and climb the right facing corner to its top. From here climb the crack directly above this pillar (VULCAN'S VARIATION, 5.8) to belay on the next ledge building an anchor with gear. 40m

P2: Climb the offwidth to hand-sized crack to another large ledge. Walk left along this ledge to find the bolted belay anchor. 15m

This can be linked with the next pitch if you use some looong runners.

P3: Ascend the wide crack by laybacking and utilizing face holds and pull over an awkward bulge reaching a ledge with an oak tree. Look to your left and spot the clean finger crack (MURIEL'S MEMOIR VARIATION, 5.9). Climb this straight up to another ledge and follow a short step to Grassy Ledges where you can belay from a tree. 35m

Location

Above and left of Little Wing, step across the pillar at the start of Fear of Flying

Protection

Gear to 4" (in spite of what Olson says)
Bring doubles of everything if linking pitches

Photos

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David J. Thompson
Hood River
 
David J. Thompson   Hood River
 
5.10a OR 5.8 (A0). I recommend the 10a route, which I believe is the original. Don't believe everything Olson says. Oct 23, 2014
BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
 
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
 
Our route: P1:Little Wing-Vulcan's Variation- Belay. P2 Left hand crack-Muriel's-Grassy Ledge topout. Having two #4's would have been nice. Jul 23, 2016