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Underdog 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 1999
Page Views: 14,134
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (200)
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One of the coolest holds at Rumney.... Found in th...

Description 

Underdog is deservedly the most popular 5.10 at Rumney. The route is long and the views of the Baker River Valley are superb. And because of the capping roofs, Underdog is one of the few sub 5.12s at Rumney that stays dry in the rain.

Scramble up easy rock to the first bolt. Here the angle steepens. The technical crux of the route involves moving left near the fourth bolt. If you find yourself groping on desperate slopers, you are probably missing something. Continue past the distinctive "triangle," a hole in the rock that is easily seen from the ground. A thin move or two brings you to the last moves before the anchor. Though initially confounding, these moves yield with some thought.

From the anchors of Underdog, it is easy to traverse (on belay, of course) left to the anchors of Peanut Man or Thin Man for toproping or draw-hanging purposes.


Protection 

9 bolts.



Photos of Underdog Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing "the hold"
Nearing "the hold"
Charlie departing from the corner on a radiant spring afternoon
Charlie departing from the corner on a radiant spr...
Underdog.
Underdog.
working through the lower crux on Underdog... didnt catch her name, anyone know her?
working through the lower crux on Underdog... didn...
nicole not beliving me that she can reach the hidden jug
nicole not beliving me that she can reach the hidd...
Using the triangle
Using the triangle
Aryesh on underdog.
Aryesh on underdog.
kevin making the reach... dont worry he's tough he doesnt need the good part of the hold :)
kevin making the reach... dont worry he's tough he...
John Gassel styles Underdog
John Gassel styles Underdog
Otey warming up on underdog on a perfect fall morning
Otey warming up on underdog on a perfect fall morn...
Aryesh with his ritualistic Kenny G warm up on underdog.
Aryesh with his ritualistic Kenny G warm up on und...
kevin on underdog and the baker river valley...
kevin on underdog and the baker river valley...
nicole nestled in to the chimney
nicole nestled in to the chimney
RB all up in that piece.
RB all up in that piece.
Steve searching for the wonderful jug
Steve searching for the wonderful jug
James Otey starting up Underdog...
James Otey starting up Underdog...
Charlie on his flash of Underdog
Charlie on his flash of Underdog
Underdog: Brian nears the finish, under the sheltering roof
Underdog: Brian nears the finish, under the shelte...
Charlie emerging from the bowels of Underdog
Charlie emerging from the bowels of Underdog
James Otey moveing past the triangle hold half way up the route...
James Otey moveing past the triangle hold half way...
Steve finishing up the final corner
Steve finishing up the final corner
Comments on Underdog Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2014
By GMBurns
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Tricky sequence through the middle and a tough / awkward finish, but a really nice route overall.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

So i have been climbing for just over 3 years mainly in Rumney and I had never done this route until yesterday, it was a treat, THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME, I am seriously saddened i had not done this route before, if you are in Rumney and you can climb 5.10a be sure to do this route! there isn't any bad climbing on the route! 4 stars for sure!

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Oct 9, 2012

How are the falls on this? Looking to start breaking into .10's

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 13, 2012

they are fine... there are steeper 10s with even cleaner falls but this is a great route to break in to the grade...

By S. Neoh
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I have never taken a whip on this route but being a route by Chris, I believe all the falls will be OK. And this is one of the best .10a sport routes I have done anywhere in the US.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Feb 5, 2013

I have fallen coming out of the crux traverse. It very much startled me (my belayer fell over catching me), but it was quite clean. No nasty bumps into the rock or anything :)

By J Meagher
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I toproped this thing yesterday, and it surpassed all of my expectations. Underdog is the BEST PIECE OF ROCK I HAVE EVER HAD THE PRIVILEDGE TO CLIMB! Every move is great, and the triangle hold is the coolest hold I have ever seen at rumney. The view and rock is excellent, and it is surprisingly sustained. Absolutely Classic!

By EpicWally
Jun 29, 2013

I just got into leading 10s, and this route was AMAZING. As for taking falls on this one, I did take a whipper off the top, just before the anchors. The fall itself was fine, but I did catch my foot on one of the ledges and sprained it a bit. Otherwise I have to agree with all the comments above: it's a must-climb route, that is well bolted, with very safe falls.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found Underdog a bit awkward, blocky, and inobvious. It seemed as if I were climbing on quarried rock. Looking up from the bottom, it's not a great line, that's for sure. The moves themselves were often interesting, but I wouldn't put Underdog in the "classic Rumney 5.10" category —not compared to beauties like Waimea, Peer Pressure, Lonesome Dove, Armed and Dangerous, Centerpiece, and Ten of Spades.

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Sep 13, 2013

Awesome route!

My partner found some sweet beta that makes the crux super smooth and fun with no traversing. If you've already done the route, try going straight up instead next time!

I climbed this the other day while it was literally pouring rain.

By J Meagher
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just as a heads-up, watch out for the big jug the on the left side of the groove with the triangle hold. Last time I was on this a small bird had decided to make this jug its final resting place.... surprised me so much I almost fell off. Im not sure if it (the bird) is still there

By J Meagher
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Anybody else think the big reach at the 8th bolt is the crux? Maybe its just the height that scares me but this move feels harder than the final corner and the move gaining the ramp

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Dec 10, 2013

J, it's tough without finding the good crimp up and to the left of the undercling. I'm lucky that I have a big ape index and can go straight for the jug from the undercling with a little reach and some high footwork. Agreed on it being a tricky section. One of my favorite routes at Rumney.

By S. Neoh
Dec 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pretty sure the technical crux is moving left around the fourth bolt using the marginal left foothold. Shorties like me (5'5") and most shorter (female) climbers feel this way. Foot work should solve the "reach problem" to the huge jug on the rail high up on the climb.

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with S. Neoh. After the fourth bolt, if you don't find a certain hidden hold (and I didn't), you just might fall off (and I did).

By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Jul 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sheesh, 5.9+ and one star? I've got that lower crux dialed and the sloping edge always makes it feel solid 10a. The difficulties are pretty much over once you've pulled that move but the climbing keeps getting better.

By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jul 31, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

That hold is so obvious that it's hard to find!

By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I changed my mind—definitely a 5.10 (not a 5.9).