Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Waimea
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All the Way-A S 
Aquarius S 
Barracuda S 
Big Kahuna S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 
Catch the Wave T,S 
Charlie Don't Surf S 
China Beach S 
Cold War S 
Concrete Jungle S 
Coral Sea S 
Cote d'Azure S 
Cyberblock S 
Dodge the Lemons S 
E-Ticket S 
Fly, The S 
Flying Fish S 
Flying Hawaiian S 
Gold Coast S 
Great White S 
Groupie Fantasy S 
Hawaii 5-O T 
Jaws II S 
Livin' Astro S 
Localmotion S 
Long Board S 
Luau S 
Man Overboard S 
Mauie Wowie S 
Muscle Beach S 
Open Project S 
Original Tsunami T 
Restless Native S 
Rhythm X S 
Riviera  S 
Short Board S 
Sidewalk Surfing S 
Silver Surfer S 
Spiny Dogfish TR 
Style That's Free, The S 
Suburban S 
Surf's Up T 
TABDITO S 
Technosurfing S 
That Crack T 
They Died Surfing S 
Tsunami S 
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 
Urban Surfer S 
Vantage Point TR 
Waimea S 
Waimea The Weenie Way T,S 
Whip Tide S 

Technosurfing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 14,634
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...

Description 

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.



Location 

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection 

9 Bolts


Photos of Technosurfing Slideshow Add Photo
Chris on the second, pumpy section of techno.
Chris on the second, pumpy section of techno.
Getting techno while surfing! Recognize this hold anyone?
Getting techno while surfing! Recognize this hold ...
TECHNO-SMURFING  !!!!!!!  <br />HAHAHA
TECHNO-SMURFING !!!!!!! HAHAHA
lily, big reach to the ledge...
lily, big reach to the ledge...
Matt Bristol climbing out of the first crux on Technosurfing
Matt Bristol climbing out of the first crux on Tec...
Lily heel hooking in to the crux...
Lily heel hooking in to the crux...
Chris on the first half of techno.
Chris on the first half of techno.
lily, in the opening corner on techno...
lily, in the opening corner on techno...
Kayte Knower heading left to the anchors. The crux bulge can be seen in the foreground.
Kayte Knower heading left to the anchors. The crux...
Jay Knower setting up for the final pump crux of this classic line.
Jay Knower setting up for the final pump crux of t...
Adam on Technosurfing.
Adam on Technosurfing.
Ladd getting through the mini corner at the very bottom of this route.
Ladd getting through the mini corner at the very b...
Dan, the new brunswickin getting into the crux on techno.
Dan, the new brunswickin getting into the crux on ...

Comments on Technosurfing Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 19, 2009

The funky bolt with the loose hanger on the bulge has been replaced with a nice fat glue-in recently
By Joe C
From: Boston, MA
Sep 15, 2010

Any good Beta for the Crux?
By ZachDKing
From: Rumney NH
Jan 3, 2012

Sorry If I'm behind the times here but,what happend to the ladder?
By JohnnyG
May 6, 2012

Anybody else a little spooked by the weathered condition of the in situ draws here?
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Sep 12, 2012

Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2012

Beta spoiler - Is there a particular spot giving you trouble? Others can probably fine tune the beta, but here is what I remember. After clipping the first bolt in the bulge, you are probably going to reach up to a good smallish hold with your right and dyno if you are short, or backstep and reach to the big flat hold with your left. I immediately get a right toe cam in the vertical crack to stabilize and clip. Match and throw your right heal up by your hands. Crank your right into a high cross-over and pop your left up to a pocket. You can then rock over your foot and pop your right fingers into a slot, camming your fingers a little with your thumb down I think. I can't remember the exact next beta, but you need to relax as much as you can and use your balance as you move up a move or two and then step left onto a shelf. I think I remember it being more grunty if you go left early and mantle, less strenuous but a little scary feeling if you go up another move or two first and step over onto the sloping shelf.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

more spoiler- mark's over all spray is good but i'd add a little detail... from the big flat ledge hold where you have hands and heel... up and left there is a down pulling crimp (left hand) and a sidepull (right hand) both are good but small-ish... then up and left to the good pocket (levering a little with a heel-toe is helpful for me on the move to the pocket, heel on ledge and toe against the wall)... from the pocket go straight up to an edge then balance right to the fingerlock hold... as mark said, climbing up the crimp face above then stepping left to the rest ledge is easier than the mantel move (though it is tempting when you are looking at it)...
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Sep 17, 2012

spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Otey shows you how to do techno....