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Technosurfing 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 19,213
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Kayte Knower making the clip at the start of the c...

Description 

Technosurfing is the most climbed 5.12 at Rumney. On a busy weekend, it may receive twenty ascents. It's a popular project and a popular warm up, yet it remains blissfully unpolished because schist is pretty darn abrasive.

If you project this, the fierceness lessens as you figure out the beta. Though intimidating at first, many an ascentionist has risen to the challenge.

Techno is a climb in three parts, each separated by a no hands rest: First, an awkward and surprisingly hard inside corner gives way to jugs. Then rest. Next, the steep bulge is the technical crux. The moves are weird and counterintuitive. Ask a local for beta. Then rest. Finally, steep climbing on big holds trends left to the anchors.



Location 

The left side of Central Wiamea. Start left of the in-situ ladder. The route angles left.

Protection 

9 Bolts


Photos of Technosurfing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on the second, pumpy section of techno.
Chris on the second, pumpy section of techno.
Rock Climbing Photo: TECHNO-SMURFING  !!!!!!!  HAHAHA
TECHNO-SMURFING !!!!!!! HAHAHA
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting techno while surfing! Recognize this hold ...
Getting techno while surfing! Recognize this hold ...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily, big reach to the ledge...
lily, big reach to the ledge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Bristol climbing out of the first crux on Tec...
Matt Bristol climbing out of the first crux on Tec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on the first half of techno.
Chris on the first half of techno.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lily heel hooking in to the crux...
Lily heel hooking in to the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on Technosurfing.
Adam on Technosurfing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan, the new brunswickin getting into the crux on ...
Dan, the new brunswickin getting into the crux on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Knower setting up for the final pump crux of t...
Jay Knower setting up for the final pump crux of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd getting through the mini corner at the very b...
Ladd getting through the mini corner at the very b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening sequence
BETA PHOTO: Opening sequence
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte Knower heading left to the anchors. The crux...
Kayte Knower heading left to the anchors. The crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily, in the opening corner on techno...
lily, in the opening corner on techno...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barely sticking the last big reach on the crux bul...
Barely sticking the last big reach on the crux bul...

Comments on Technosurfing Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 19, 2009

The funky bolt with the loose hanger on the bulge has been replaced with a nice fat glue-in recently
By Joe C
From: Boston, MA
Sep 15, 2010

Any good Beta for the Crux?
By ZachDKing
From: Prescott, AZ
Jan 3, 2012

Sorry If I'm behind the times here but,what happend to the ladder?
By JohnnyG
May 6, 2012

Anybody else a little spooked by the weathered condition of the in situ draws here?
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 12, 2012

Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2012

Beta spoiler - Is there a particular spot giving you trouble? Others can probably fine tune the beta, but here is what I remember. After clipping the first bolt in the bulge, you are probably going to reach up to a good smallish hold with your right and dyno if you are short, or backstep and reach to the big flat hold with your left. I immediately get a right toe cam in the vertical crack to stabilize and clip. Match and throw your right heal up by your hands. Crank your right into a high cross-over and pop your left up to a pocket. You can then rock over your foot and pop your right fingers into a slot, camming your fingers a little with your thumb down I think. I can't remember the exact next beta, but you need to relax as much as you can and use your balance as you move up a move or two and then step left onto a shelf. I think I remember it being more grunty if you go left early and mantle, less strenuous but a little scary feeling if you go up another move or two first and step over onto the sloping shelf.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 13, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

more spoiler- mark's over all spray is good but i'd add a little detail... from the big flat ledge hold where you have hands and heel... up and left there is a down pulling crimp (left hand) and a sidepull (right hand) both are good but small-ish... then up and left to the good pocket (levering a little with a heel-toe is helpful for me on the move to the pocket, heel on ledge and toe against the wall)... from the pocket go straight up to an edge then balance right to the fingerlock hold... as mark said, climbing up the crimp face above then stepping left to the rest ledge is easier than the mantel move (though it is tempting when you are looking at it)...
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 17, 2012

spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 8, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Otey shows you how to do techno....
By Graham O.
Jul 26, 2016

CLASSIC!!

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