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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Darryl Roth, Dave Dangle and Richard Aschert
Page Views: 3,436 total · 21/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Mar 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the beautiful slab of rock south of the Ejection Wall. As of Mar '05, it was marked by a small plaque at the base, and it is listed in the Van Horn guide (though not on the topo).

An excellent route on superb rock, this is one of the few routes at shelf that starts on bomber rock, and thus has no choss on the entire route. The hardest moves are at the very start with a difficult boulder problem. It's best to clip the low first bolt from the ground, or get a spotter. Once you reach the second bolt, it's all gravy, with some spectacular pockets on perfect stone. The upper climbing gets a bit tedious, as it doesn't rise to the level of the lower section, but it is still good climbing.

This route rivals the Gym Arete for the best 12- at the Gym, and is a must do!

Protection

[10] bolts, I think. Clip the first bolt from the ground, before you start.

Photos

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Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
 
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
 
The move to get established on the route is technical and somewhat dynamic, but it is also true that the rest of the route is not that difficult. I am not sure how I would grade this route but, I will say that this is a great route. Apr 30, 2007
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
10 bolts + 2 for the anchors. This climb is rad. Most people climbing solid 5.11 would onsight this if it wasn't for the beginning. Just figure out how to get off the ground and hold on thru the pumpy climbing to the 4th bolt. May 12, 2008
Darryl Roth  
 
This was my FA. Dave Dangle and Richard Aschert were in on it as well. I've always felt a bit uncertain that the grade should be .12a. That singular move just makes me hesitant and perhaps is better at .11d or c. I suppose that consensus is the boss. Jul 21, 2009
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
I'm surprised that everybody says it is game over after the opening moves. I was able to get through the start each time but wasn't able to stick the move at the bulge until my 3rd try. I'm pretty tall, and it was still a really really big throw for me. It seemed like there were only a couple holds to work with, so I'm curious to see if other folks found a better way. It is pretty hard to come up with a game plan from the ground - the rock almost camoflauges the holds, and the bulging nature makes it tough to get a good look ahead. The trial run was pretty much flying by the seat of your pants climbing. Pretty cool.

I thought the upper part was kind of heady. The climbing wasn't that difficult, but I was anxious about flubbing it and having to start over. It seemed like several of the bolts were pretty high and you have to do a balancy move into awkward stances to clip, instead of clipping from good stances and then doing the moves. Some times you are doing this with the bolt well below your feet, and several times it seemed like the hold I was clipping off of could be fragile. I definitely didn't want to fall as it is slabby with some small ledges. I thought this kind of detracted a bit from the quality, but overall I still think it is a really good route. Mar 18, 2012
William Mondragon  
  5.12a
I stick clipped 2nd bolt because 1st is so low. First move crux for sure. It seems like it's going to be hard getting to and clipping 3rd, but the holds are good (especially the one you clip off of), then another boulder problem to get over the bulge and clip 4th bolt. I personally really enjoy enjoyed the climbing from here to the anchors, you don't have to clip every 2 moves, and the rock is so good. Stay on your toes because there is one last bouldery sequence from the last bolt to the anchor! Dec 7, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Slightly harder than its neighbor, The Pickle. Very good with some sustained slab climbing up high that is just engaging enough.... Nov 22, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12a
Super nice route with one star deduction for weird clip stances on the headwall. Feb 22, 2016

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