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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & D. Roth
Page Views: 1,282 total, 8/month
Shared By: Mike Anderson on Mar 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is located on the black bowling ball buttress just up canyon from the Example prow. The buttress contains two routes, "Arnold, Arnold!", and to its right, "Solar Flex".

You may want to stick clip the first bolt, then scramble up a chossy flake to begin the route. The hardness gets going right away, with steeper than normal (for Shelf) climbing up excellent stone. Move quickly to a good rest at a flake just right of the 3rd bolt. Past this, the crux involves spanning a long blank section, then the route eases up considerably, while a long runout takes you to the shared anchor.

This is a rare, high quality power route, so take advantage of it, if that's your style. If you like this route, then you should also like "Arnold, Arnold".

Protection

4 bolts to welded cold shut anchor, shared with "Arnold, Arnold!"

Photos

the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11c/d
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11c/d
Much harder crux than its neighbor. Using the rest to the right leaves you a bit marooned. A harder send than Arnold Arnold. Sep 18, 2016
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
This is another great route similar to next-door Arnold Arnold. I'm curious if folks who have done both think that Solar Flex is a letter grade easier. I thought Solar Flex demanded more power and used smaller holds than A-A, although Solar Flex is probably less pumpy. I realized I didn't use the rest out right, so maybe that's the difference. Oct 25, 2010