Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1987
Page Views: 1,087 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Holy Stopper Crux, Batman! This gem is given 5.11b in the latest Shelf Guide, but there are 5.13s with easier cruxes. The route is anything but smooth, with 40 feet of trivial cruising to an in-your-face boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. There are two obstacles here, first, there are about ten 1, 2, & 3 finger "pockets" to choose from, they are all far away, and only two of them are any good. Second, even if you haven't wasted all of your energy locating the correct pockets, the move is still quite burly. Fortunately things ease quite a bit above the bulge, but you'll likely be too pumped to notice.

A proud on sight, whatever the grade.

Location Suggest change

Right of the "Head Cheese" roof is a slightly overhanging prow of excellent rock with two routes. Immediately right of these routes is a dark black slab with 4 bolted routes. This is the right-most of these 4 routes (and the third route right of "Five Dollars").

Protection Suggest change

Many bolts to good 2BA. The first bolt is dangerously high--out of stick clip range. You may want to clip the 1st bolt on "Hot Rod Lincoln".

Photos

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