Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1987
Page Views: 462 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Holy Stopper Crux, Batman! This gem is given 5.11b in the latest Shelf Guide, but there are 5.13s with easier cruxes. The route is anything but smooth, with 40 feet of trivial cruising to an in-your-face boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. There are two obstacles here, first, there are about ten 1, 2, & 3 finger "pockets" to choose from, they are all far away, and only two of them are any good. Second, even if you haven't wasted all of your energy locating the correct pockets, the move is still quite burly. Fortunately things ease quite a bit above the bulge, but you'll likely be too pumped to notice.

A proud on sight, whatever the grade.

Location

Right of the "Head Cheese" roof is a slightly overhanging prow of excellent rock with two routes. Immediately right of these routes is a dark black slab with 4 bolted routes. This is the right-most of these 4 routes (and the third route right of "Five Dollars").

Protection

Many bolts to good 2BA. The first bolt is dangerously high--out of stick clip range. You may want to clip the 1st bolt on "Hot Rod Lincoln".

Photos

slim    
Yeah, the first bolt was definitely WTF. The crux is, indeed, a wake-up call after the first part. Feb 16, 2010
Something may have broken. I did this shortly after MVH put it up and it wasn't a give away, but I could do it. Apr 9, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Despite some sharp grips and the holds being covered in dust, it's a pretty good one. The crux is solid 11d and maybe one of the tougher ones you will encounter at Shelf at this grade. Needs more traffic but would clean up nicely. Much better climbing than its neighbor, Hot Rod Lincoln, despite the guidebook claiming that to be the best route in this sector. Jan 31, 2016
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
  5.11d
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
  5.11d
Harder than some of the low 12s at Shelf for sure. Tiny, shallow pockets and technical footwork at the crux, pretty fierce! Be prepared to deal with a little shrubbery. Well worth the effort! Feb 22, 2017