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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 214 total, 9/month
Shared By: Curt MacNeill on Jan 31, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start as for Butt Flambé, and free solo up the low angled/slab ramp to a set of anchors at 35 feet. From here, hang a long sling and traverse right to clip the first bolt of the route. After clipping the first bolt, easily reach back and unclip the anchor sling. From the ledge, climb straight up the striking arête, using opposing sidepulls in the crack and the arête. At about 80 feet, surmount a chossy ledge (tons of loose rock) and look up. From here, a few more clips on a looming/ overhanging white and black streaked bulge protect the chains. Although the holds are very positive and juggy, a pump sets in due to the steepness. Feel the exposure as you crank the overhanging prow at the top with the river far down below.

Despite never seeing anyone on this thing in all the years I have been going to Shelf, I thought it was quite fun movement and spectacular position.

CAUTION - a 70 meter rope is required to lower to the ground.

Location

It is left of There Goes the Neighborhood.

Protection

10 bolts/ 2 bolts anchor.

Photos

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