Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Darryl Roth, 1987
Page Views: 13,708 total · 57/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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The best route of its grade at The Gym? Probably.

Hike up the trail and stop. The stunning arete right before your eyes is The Gym Arete. The line has a direct start at 5.12c that I have toproped on several occasions. This seems really fingery and gets quite powerful in the entry moves that are very steep. Alternatively, step into the corner and pick out a short, diagonal variation for "only" 5.12b. This seems a lot more user-friendly and gains the arete on a very natural, curving line.

Overall, the route is very continuous. Climbing is unusual for the Shelf, being on edges and square cuts until quite high on the route when a rogue pocket or two will start to emerge. This is positively a great line, and I wish my notes referenced the FA team. I have some guesses but nothing concrete. Jump on it!


Eight to ten draws and a rope.