Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin, 2004
Page Views: 165 total · 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Most of the routes at Shelf that climb black stone have few features, and the few they have are small and slopey. This line is a bit of an exception, offering some great incut pockets and positive edges. Big holds through the low bulge make this a great warm-up option, but be prepared for some old-school bolting.

Begin atop a pedestal and make a few easy moves to reach a slight bulge. A few big cranks and a slight runout lead to a good stance at a horizontal break. More good pockets clear the last vertical bit, then follow an intermittent seam up the final slab.

Location

About 30 yards right of The Example, this is the third route from the right on a wide black slab.

Protection

4 bolts to 2-bolt open coldshut anchor shared with Five Dollars. The bolts on this are well-spaced, but all of the cruxes are protected. Take care on the easy sections.

Photos

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Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a PG13
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a PG13
Shorter folks may have a harder time clipping the 3rd bolt from the ledge. Heady for sure but great movement and stone.
Feels like an easier Arnold Arnold and almost as fun! The base is all clear of cactus now, so get on it! May 21, 2018