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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson, Chris Lesher, 2002
Page Views: 13,858 total, 80/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Oct 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts about 100 yards right of Urban Fringe, in an obtuse corner with a serrated crack running all the way up. A black slab lies just to the right of the start.

Stem, face climb, and jam up the steep corner with beautiful exposed moves. The crux layback is at the last bolt.

Great moves, excellent protection, exposure, beautiful rock: the best 5.9 I have done at Shelf. Destined to become extremely popular.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
Note of caution for those climbing this route: we climbed this route yesterday, 11/4/17, and found that the nut on the left bolt in the anchor was loose. I didn't have any tools, so I tightened the nut by hand, but this anchor needs attention if someone is in the area with the means to address it. Also, the two quicklinks on the ends of the anchor are rather worn and could bear replacement. Nov 5, 2017
MeeshCat
Westminster, CO
MeeshCat   Westminster, CO
AWESOME CLIMB! Such fun movement!!! Highly recommended warm-up! Jun 24, 2016
KateC
 
KateC  
 
We had to wait in line for this one on Saturday, and it was fun. Not my personal favorite 9 at Shelf, but a good, long workout. I did find a large, loose rock behind the overhanging flake about 3/4 of the way up. I reached up, grabbed it, and it moved. It's position inside of an open-bottom flake aimed directly at my belayer had me worried, but nobody else (and there were a lot of "elses" there on Saturday) seemed to care much. Mar 31, 2008
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
As of yesterday, the climb seemed free of dirt and loose rock. I believe it to be the best 5.9 I have done at Shelf. Aug 27, 2007
Nate Oakes  
 
I don't have much crack experience, so it felt like a 10a to me. I agree with Rick, that crack climbers will likely find it to be an easier grade. Climbed it yesterday, and we didn't encounter any birds or bats, or shit, along the route. Moves seemed to thin out a bit around bolts 6 and 7, with the hardest layback pull near the top. Good climb, 3 stars. May 14, 2007
It is a good climb. But to qualify it a bit: having to blow shit off the holds, to pick and choose where to use a jam because of the birds (visible) inside the crack, and hearing bats squealing from within the lurking darkness kept it from being a great climb for me. In spite of all that, I still thought it was good. And it keeps you psychologically sharp, fingers just inches away from a bat's grill, on lead. Got to be mentally bulletproof. I'd climb it again with pleasure. Aug 2, 2004
Kirk Woerner  
5.9
We got to climb this wall today and it was great. We goton all these climbs missing only the arete on the right. What an awesome area! Saturday afternoon, only one other party. I'm glad we got there before the guidebook is out...I think this climb is 5.9 at most. May 22, 2004
Edward Jenner
  5.10a
Edward Jenner  
  5.10a
This climb is certainly good 9+/10a 2-3 stars. Thinking about some of the other routes on Cactus I'll go for 10a - 3stars. It seemed like a strange warm-up for shelf. Maybe perfect though, strenuous enough to get the blood pumping but not crimpy so you don't get your prime shelf grip pumped. Ron, you must be strong! Laybacking the last moves seemed like it would be quite strenuous. A more delicate approach also works well.

I'd like to say that the route to the right 'The Raw and the Roasted' seems absolutely superb. It looked good from the ground, but OH MY. Get on it before it gets greasy, which it might near the top where the feet are a bit more subtle. I only managed one top-rope attempt, so I don't want to add it as a route on this site, but it really seemed nice. I'm definitely going to go back for the redpoint next time. I guess it is in the mid-11 range. Jan 21, 2004
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
 
My lips are sealed Dave...but the new guide should be out by the first of the year, and you can get all the details about the Mammoth Wall and the many other new routes that have been done over the past few years at that time.

As for the grade, when writing guides I defer to, and publish, the consensus grade that emerges after repeat ascents. "Ga-stoned Again" seems to be settling in the 9+/10a range. It would appear that experienced crack climbers generally call it 9-something, while those with less experience in cracks grade it a touch harder, but call it what you want, that's what personal opinions are all about, and published grades are nothing more than an estimation of a routes' difficulty.

The name is a play on the famed '70s vintage poster that some of the old timers will remember...Stoned Again!

For accuracy, this route, and other nearby routes that are posted on this site like Saint Patty's Slab, Urban Fringe, Up Valley Goes Downtown, etc., are located in the New Gym, not the Gym. Dec 2, 2003
Yes this is "Gastoned Again", Rick calls it 10a/b. I did it last year just after it had been bolted and the start was pretty loose but the last 3/4's was stellar.There are also 4 other Thompson routes in the vicinity including the next bolted route to the right, "The Raw and the Roasted" that a lot of people think might be "The Best Route at Shelf". And this doesn't include "Pulley Mammoth" the furthest left route, "Natty Dread", an old route , 1st route left of "Gastoned", and the unnamed Van Horn route, 2nd line to the right of Gastoned. All in all 7, 2-3 star routes on a really tall wall. Destined to be a Shelf mecca as soon as the new guide is out......Chime in Rick...... Oct 16, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
 
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
 
The real name of the route is "Ga-stoned Again", according to a friend who has seen Rick Thompson's notes for his upcoming guidebook.

The route is supposedly 5.10a, but four of us who climbed it felt it was 5.9.

Oct 16, 2003