Avg: 3.5 from 232 votes
|FA:||Bob Robertson and Richard Asher, trad 1st then bolted.|
|Page Views:||9,057 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||montay on Oct 12, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.