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The Crack of Dawn
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 298
votes
Routes in The Gym
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Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Demagogue S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Free Willie V1-2 5 |
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Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Meathead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Must Love Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tapped Out S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Bob Robertson and Richard Asher, trad 1st then bolted? Dennis Harmon, 1986 or earlier? |
| Page Views: | 10,907 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | montay on Oct 12, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
To find this route, read the directions given in the route titled "Pinhead". From Pinhead, hike approximately 100 yards to the north and locate a HUGE roof about 60 feet off the deck. To the left of this lies the gorgeous lines of "The Gym Arete" (please see Richard Wright's entry for this route) and "The Crack of Dawn". The Crack of Dawn is probably the most striking crack line I have seen at Shelf. We are talking BEAUTIFUL!!
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.
18 Comments