5.10b,
Sport,
Avg: 3.5 from 282
votes
FA: Bob Robertson and Richard Asher, trad 1st then bolted? Dennis Harmon, 1986 or earlier?
Colorado
> Canon City
> Shelf Rd
> Gym
To find this route, read the directions given in the route titled "
Pinhead". From
Pinhead, hike approximately 100 yards to the north and locate a HUGE roof about 60 feet off the deck. To the left of this lies the gorgeous lines of "
The Gym Arete" (please see Richard Wright's entry for this route) and "The Crack of Dawn". The Crack of Dawn is probably the most striking crack line I have seen at Shelf. We are talking BEAUTIFUL!!
The Van Horn book gives this line 10b. The old select 200 book gives a rating of 11b, which is a bit far fetched. Purists might have a kiniption about seeing a crack like this bolted. However, I am going to stick to the facts on this one (please join me in leaving this subject untouched as it could easily explode into terrabytes of discussion).
The facts are as follows:
Start up on funky, hollowed, pockety rock to a high first clip (red home made hanger). Get ready to crank. Jam from fingers to hands and maybe even a fist or two, and heck, even throw in a lieback or two just for kicks. Follow this recipe for about 4 bolts. Stir in a little finger crack/ face edging for about 3 bolts to the anchors. A very tasty route.
This could probably be a good trad lead for a sport climber who is learning to place gear. No brainer bomber gear and bolts for backup.
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Why don't you take a moment to actually log on with your real name - no need to be a faceless corward. Jan 31, 2002
Boulder Colorado
Some folks in Boulder are going to lose their lunch when they see that.
Excellent line! Nov 18, 2003
Olympia, WA
broomdigiddy
Flagstaff, AZ
Though actually there are 8 bolts + anchors instead of the advertised 6. Sep 5, 2010
Yosemite, CA
Salt Lake City
Carbondale
Baltimore, MD
Denvah
Denver, CO
Black Hills, SD