Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Darryl Roth
Page Views: 1,807 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matt Robertson on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Based on appearance, this might be a junior version of Ejection Seat. Forty feet right (north) of the Gym Arete and twenty feet right of Easy Cheese, look for two lines ascending a steep black bulge.

Arnold! Arnold! takes the left of these two lines, and the name fits until the crimps are reached. Steep jug pulling is friendly for the first two bolts, but just as the angle begins to ease the full-hand buckets disappear in favor of crimps and sharp bidoigt pockets. The ever-decreasing angle of the bulge motivates one to hustle, and if you outrace the pump you will find your feet beneath you for a few easy slab moves to the chains.

For those of us who climb like Austrian bodybuilders, this is a nice jughaul detour from the punishment of all those vertical Shelf faces.

Protection

Five bolts protect the steep pulling very well.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is really an outstanding route for the grade. I can't think of many 11+ routes at shelf that have better rock, better pockets, or more interesting moves. The only drawback would be the sharpness of the coral, but that's pretty much par for the course. I thought the long span right at the start was pretty powerful, but the pocket pulling about is spectacular. Mar 16, 2005
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.11d
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.11d
Yes, this is indeed a sweet, sweet route. I wish it were longer and steeper, then I could give it an other star. Amazingly this route is not that traveled. There is not a lot of chalk on it marking the holds and there is sand in the pockets. It actually makes for some interesting route finding. Go right and you might find it feeling hard for the grade. Feb 3, 2006
Joey Jimenez
Colorado Springs
Joey Jimenez   Colorado Springs
Climbed this line yesterday and will have to go back next weekend for the redpoint. What an exceptional line with a little bit of everything - big powerful moves on overhanging jugs and crimps to start the climb, straight into a series of finger pockets at about the third & fourth bolt make up the crux, and then a big high step or reach to some sharp coral pinches get you over the bulge to the juggy slab finish. Do take your time and regain your composure on the slab as a fall there would suck. When you're gunning for the fourth bolt, there's a small two finger pocket with a great thumb catch that sits right and even with the bolt which makes that clip significantly easier if you can find it. You can't see it until you're eye level but it's an inch higher than the other obvious pocket beneath which is SHARP!

There was barely any chalk on this climb before we got on it, but we did chalk the holds we used to work the line. Definitely needs to see more traffic as it's an awesome climb at the grade. the 3rd bolt was a tad loose, so we'll try and wrench it the next time we're out. Enjoy. Oct 19, 2009
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
Awesome headwall and rock quality all the way through; thought there were a couple cruxy moves. The top, though sharp in places, has a few hidden, incut holds that are actually very friendly and sequential. With perfect beta through the headwall/slab transition, you shouldn't need to aggressively grab anything significantly sharper than Shelf standards. Dec 3, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
My inner knee can attest to the insanely sharp rock...but the smile on my face after finishes could care less. With that said, amazing route. Highly enjoyable big move (depending on your height) to kick it off followed by hidden incuts and pockets. They're there...just make sure you grab the right one...there's plenty of phonies. A definitely do if an 11+ climber in the gym! Oct 20, 2013
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Upgraded with new hardware Spring 2014.
Gear supplied by Bruno Hache.
Fun route! Dec 18, 2014
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  5.11d
Nolan Robertson   Durango, CO
  5.11d
Sharp and amazing, one of the best routes I have done at Shelf. Dec 16, 2016