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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ian Spencer-Green -- Bolted/Equipped by Darryl Roth
Page Views: 2,020 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ian Spencer-Green on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A fantastic and steep boulder problem route that is a must-do for any climber capable of the grade. "The Green Bonus" takes the thin left side of the overhang. The crux involves a difficult boulder problem sequence using pockets and thin edges through the lower bulge. The route then finishes out the roof to the anchor. I think this may be the steepest route at Shelf. I am unsure if this route has ever been repeated, as I cranked the FA in 1999 and have never heard of anyone trying it.

Location

"The Green Bonus" is the line taking massive bulge just left of "Bone N' Vein" on the far right side of the gym. Continue north past "Deeper Shade of Soul" a couple hundred yards and you will see the looming, huge overhang.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
The information provided above by Mr. Hand is incorrect. The entire Gym cliffline is on BLM land, as well as most of the land north of the gym (to about half-way to the North End). But as they say on Reading Rainbow, don't take my word for it. Go here and enter Schedule Number 3549000000005. CLick on the "Show Parcel Map" button. You will want to zoom in ~4 times, then click the "Aerial Photo" check box (on the left), then pan up to the Gym area.

You can also skip a bunch of steps and just go here, but I don't know how long that link will work. Oct 21, 2010
Wow! I'm pysched that the "Green Bonus" has been seeing some action! I certainly think it's one of the funnest, hard Shelf routes. I am surprised by the grade comments, however. I sent it 4th try, 1st try second day and thought it could've only been 13b/c, but decided to give it an open 13+. If what you guys say is true, it must be one of best ascents, having done it in so few tries. I tried "Manly Bulges" probably 20 tries after bolting it, never sent, and thought it was way harder. I may have been on some tunnel vision beta though I don't know. In any case, great job guys! I also felt Damage was harder than Green Bonus and agree with the 13c/d or possibly d rating.

It is also noteworthy to mention the "Green Bonus" was originally equipped by Darryl Roth around the mid '90s. Mar 2, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I remember there being signs to indicate everything right of the Gym Arete was private property, which were pretty much totally ignored.

GH sent me an email stating that he was acting as proxy for Bob D'Antonio who has a new guidebook coming out and apparently has learned this. Bob is no longer posting on MP but wanted the info to be more widely known. I will email him myself and get the whole story. Feb 20, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
There were no signs on Monday. Or a fence, or any other indication that it was private property. Feb 19, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hi Greg,
Do you know who the landowner is and when was the property posted? I haven't been to Shelf in a while, but I don't remember any signs. Feb 19, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
The routes beyond Steeper Shade of Soul are on Private Land. It is private property and posted, climbers need to respect the wishes of the landowner and stay off his property or get written permission from him to climb. Many people have worked extremely hard to maintain a great relationship with land managers and private property owners. Hopefully that can continue. Maybe one day a solution can be worked out to allow access, until that time don’t climb in this area without permission. Feb 18, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
Ya, it's on private property, but I wouldn't say it's a secret. People from Boulder know where it is. It's just un-documented, and probably best if it retains a low profile.

Peter, that's really interesting. Damage took me way longer than this. I thought the Damage BP was harder (smaller holds, requiring more precision to stick the dynos, and twice as long - 8 moves vs. 4), and it comes at the end. Granted there is a good rest, but I always found it hard to rest there because it was always so cold. Due to the fact that it faces west, we would wait for the sun to hit, but that little nook never got sun until just before sunset. Probably was the wrong time of year (March/April). Feb 17, 2010
slim    
Peter, what's the deal with Damage Wall? Is it on private property? Every once in a while, somebody asks where it is, but it seems hush hush. Just curious. That route went up in '97 or so? Feb 17, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I've done Damage, which also has basically a no-hands, and felt it was definitely easier than Green Bonus. Damage is a 12b to a really good rest, a V7/8 boulder problem and then thin but easy to the top. In fact, Devil's Road took me longer to do. Feb 17, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
This is really a great route, if you don't mind the no-hands. I don't have any complaints about the rock--its better than the rock on the average Cactus route. Definitely no harder than 13c, though. I would peg the first BP at ~V8, and the second at V5 or possibly V6 if you include the clip and the resultant pump/tempo disruption (in other words, V5 on TR, V6 if leading and you don't skip the clip). Kinda hard to grade the first BP since pain tolerance is such a big factor. After doing this I'm inclined to say Damage is indeed 13d. Curious to hear what others think. Feb 16, 2010
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
I don't think it's harder than 13c. I sent this shortly after climbing Nintendo at the Gorilla Cliffs in St George (13c), and Sitting in Limbo (13b/c) at Penitente, and it didn't take me significantly more time to do. The crux is bouldery, but you get to do it with no pump whatsoever. I suppose it depends on your philosopy for route grading. This route may have the hardest single moves at Shelf, but since you get to do them right off the ground, I don't think that justifies a really hard rating.

It's unfortunate the rock isn't so good, and it's a bummer about the no-hands. Oct 14, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.13c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.13c
This route's been done by Scott Hahn & Mike Anderson, and I believe they reported it as 13c. Jul 11, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Hi Ian,
I worked on this route once or twice and feel it is right around 13d, even with the midway rest. The start is very bouldery, maybe V8 or V9, and the upper roof is really reachy and powerful, V8 perhaps. A classic route and one that I have always wanted to finish up. Jul 10, 2009