Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Musso
Page Views: 4,004 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


99 Opinions

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Description

A fun line, with hidden qualities from the ground eye view. The fun, slightly dirty start below the roof warms you up, the roof delivers a punch, but the real fight comes between the roof and the chains. Interesting movement throughout.

Location

Located on the left side of the panel of rock to the left of Gastoned Again. Just to the left of Natty Dread (11b) and to the right of Shorty Bob (10c).

Protection

12 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
Dirty, chossy, and caked in mud. The upper half, however, is quite good and redeems this from "bomb" status. Oct 15, 2007
Kelbad Henderson
Colorado Springs
  5.11c
Kelbad Henderson   Colorado Springs
  5.11c
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. Some of the holds down low have a little sand, but they are big and you can motor right past them to the roof.
The roof is a fun little boulder problem with good hands and feet. Just be careful clipping the bolt at the lip, you really don't want to blow that clip, since a few small ledges below could be nasty to your foot and ankle.
The 'slab' above the roof is thin in spots, but has no shut-down moves to speak of.
I think there are a few too many rest scattered about to deserve an 11+ rating. Nov 13, 2007
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
Going to the anchors shut be down on my first burn. What a heartbreaker! My only concern on this route is, "Where's the damn anchor clipping holds?!?" I felt smooth on this thing till I got caught up in some froggy position with good, but spread out feet and terrible holds to clip the chains. Got it on my second burn, but I almost pitched again trying to clip the anchors. This is another awesome route at The Gym. Apr 5, 2010
Julia
 
Julia  
 
Fun, but chossy for sure. Really cool move pulling over the roof! May 18, 2015
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
 
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
 
Great route. I didn't find it chossy at all. Oct 16, 2017