Type: Sport
FA: Darryl Roth, Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle
Page Views: 6,016 total · 29/month
Shared By: Mark Eller on Oct 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

Anyone who slags Shelf for being too slabby (as I sometimes do when my terrible footwork is exposed) should definitely get on this climb.

Campus the initial overhang into a pod, then swing though pleasant moves on big holds for about 20 feet. At the fourth bolt, the jug-hauling ends abruptly. A big crank from thin holds to thinner ones is where your onsight attempt ends. Suss out the reachy crux move, cruise throught the 5.11 moves on ther upper face, and pull your cord for the redpoint.

This is a great climb (but watch out for a sharp, right hand pocket when setting up for the crux -- I sliced my finger wide open in it).

Protection

10 draws.

Photos

Great. Oct 2, 2002
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
How is this not 3 stars?? Freaking awesome! Some of the most continuously high quality rock and movement at Shelf. May 26, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b/c
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b/c
Excellent route. The crux is brief, but the climbing above the bulge is fun. Jul 26, 2005
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.12b
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.12b
The key to this route was moving through the steep lower part quickly. There is a place to shake out and chalk before the crux but I couldn't get a great rest here so dialing the steepness was a must. Definitely one of the more unique routes at Shelf and a nice change of pace from the mostly vertical climbing there. Feb 3, 2006
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Does anyone know the condition of the anchors today? May 20, 2010
Greg Smith
Canon City, CO
Greg Smith   Canon City, CO
The anchors are ok (so-so). There is a bomber hanger with a beefy rap-ring and then a homemade hanger with a rather thin, worn-out rap-ring. Chopping the questionable rap-ring and adding a new one would be nice. Jul 2, 2010
ZachS00
Denver, CO
ZachS00   Denver, CO
Thanks. Jul 7, 2010
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
This route is one of the best at the Gym area. Stellar climbing leads to a desperate crank off some funky pinches. I think the crux is getting the proper body position for the big move up to the right hander. There are lots of things to hold onto in the crux area before you toss up. Nonetheless, this route is awesome!!! Oct 25, 2012
eddie m
  5.12b/c
eddie m  
  5.12b/c
To whoever stole my quickdraws off this route after I had left them up there for about 12 hours, that was really lame. I'd say it was pretty obvious it was not booty, but you probably already knew that. Sep 30, 2013
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
This classic route was upgraded from star drive to ASCA hardware by Nate in Fall 2014.
Special thanks to ASCA for the hardware. Dec 18, 2014
Darryl Roth  
 
Thanks to Bruno and his re-equip crew for updating my decades old hardware on the Ejection Seat and many other Gym routes! Jan 15, 2015