Type: Sport
FA: Rick Thompson, Pat Thompson, John Musso
Page Views: 5,008 total · 36/month
Shared By: SirVato on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


172 Opinions

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Description

This is the first route to the right of "Gastoned Again". Superb!

Follow 4 bolts up a short, prickly arete to a large ledge (1st and 4th bolts are easily skippable). Now for the fun. Climb solid stone to a small roof. Rest and prepare for the crux. Pull around the overlap to the left and begin the business.

Location

This route is just right of Gastoned Again on the Mammoth Wall in the Gym Area.

Protection

13 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11c
Brilliant climbing! This route to me seemed like 3 mini routes. The first being the coral reef arete (5.8) then to the wonderfully crimpy wall to the roof (10b/c), grab a no hands head jam rest or a great kneebar to shake out before the business. Over the roof comes the business culminating with a dynamic move to a good jug just below the anchors. Best route in the 11 range I have done at Shelf! Oct 26, 2008
jhump
  5.11b
jhump  
  5.11b
A fun route with great holds throughout. More than a few notches softer than its neighbor "In the morning you'll be mine." I found it to be easier than some 11b's at Shelf. Mar 4, 2009
Joshua1979
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Joshua1979   Colorado Springs, CO
 
What an incredible line. I will probably climb this every time I'm at The Gym. If winter, climb it early in the day while it's still in the sun. Nov 22, 2011
Dan Foster
Hillsboro, OR
 
Dan Foster   Hillsboro, OR
 
Probably one of the best 11s in Shelf. I think the grade gets a 'soft' reputation, because the movement is fairly straightforward, you can see where you need to go (most of the time), you just have make the moves. The upper section definitely earns whatever letter of 5.11 you feel is most appropriate for your efforts. Oct 21, 2013
Moritz B.  
 
Solid 5.11 climbing in the upper part, but you get a great no-hands rest under the roof before that. Mar 15, 2015
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a/b
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a/b
This route should be on the hit list of anyone climbing at this grade at Shelf! So cool! The upper part did not seem as cruxy as the moves right off the ledge. Great route that is just as cool and longer than most of the other 5.11s I have done at Shelf. Mar 17, 2015