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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Colin Lantz, 1991
Page Views: 5,138 total, 27/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Feb 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Head Cheese lies to the right of the Crack of Dawn (the 10b bolted crack). It's a steep route for Shelf Road on mostly good pockets and crimpers. Facing mostly north, it doesn't get much sun. Trundle up 20 feet to the first bolt. The rock seems solid here but it's a little spooky soloing this far on Shelf Road rock. Move through two steep roof systems with a fairly good rest in between. There are 2 very closely spaced bolts midway up the route. I heard that a clipping jug fell off so a new bolt was added (the bottom of the 2, I think, because it looked different from the other bolts). I only clipped the bottom of the two to avoid a major mid-crux pump. A cool, gymnastic route, this thing deserves more traffic (I've only seen one other party ever try this route).

Protection

7 or 8 bolts + anchors.

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
This route at Shelf is your little slice of Rifle. With the exception of the first 20 feet which is a total choss pile, the rock is fairly good. Soloing on the loose rock in the bottom is a bit hollow feeling and spooky. I am guessing that one of these days a death block is going to come down, so be careful. After the first 2 bolts, the climbing gets steep to say the least with several moves where you're horizontal in a ceiling. The moves are big and burly and some of the clips are difficult to make, but the whole upper sector of the route is clean falls. All in all, a great route and a bit different and gymnastic like for Shelf Road. Super fun and should see alot more traffic in the years ahead.... Mar 26, 2011
Robert Buswold
Northglenn, CO
Robert Buswold   Northglenn, CO
Wow, thanks for the history lesson Colin. It's always interesting when a route-name actually has a story behind it. Now I feel more compelled to head out and try this one some day! Aug 3, 2010
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
  5.12c/d
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
  5.12c/d
Did the FA of this route in the late Spring of 1991. Someone else had bolted the route and it had been sitting undone for several seasons. It had a piece of red webbing on the first bolt which was the accepted signal that someone had bolted the route and was actively working on trying to redpoint it but that they had not yet finished the first ascent. I believe that Lynn Hill was famously quoted as saying that "men feel very territorial. It's like dogs peeing on trees.'' about this practice. I always thought that was the greatest quote. Lynn always said exactly what was on her mind even if it pissed people off, and that really pissed off a lot of people that where putting up new routes during that period. In any case, the route had been sitting for a few seasons and the red webbing was getting faded and old. I had been making inquiries but couldn't find anything out about it, so I took the webbing down and did the route.

I remember that some of the bolts where in the wrong place and that I added some bolts. This probably explains the two bolts close together midway up the route. I also purposely pried off a refrigerator-sized block under the second roof. This thing was hanging on by a thread and probably would have killed someone if it had not been cleaned up by the route equipper. The block landed on my new Feathered Friends down jacket and it exploded into a cloud of feathers that drifted around the base of the Gym all afternoon.

The route was named after my boss and the owner of of JRat, Kevin Furnary. The JRat logo had a rat in it and there was a lot of association of rats and cheese in the company's marketing imagery....hence the name the Head Cheese. Not a climber himself, Kevin was a great boss and an all-around good guy who got forced out of his business in the end by an aggressive East Coast, Mercedes driving, investor who was going to make JRat into the next big success story in the outdoor industry. JRat went out of business in 1992. During my employment at JRat, Kevin allowed me to combine my job as Product Manager with a travel schedule that allowed me to go to Europe and Asia and compete in the World Cup Climbing Competition circuit. Thank you Kevin for all the opportunity you provided me and for being a great friend and mentor.


Dec 12, 2009
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
  5.12+
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
  5.12+
This is a terrific route! The clipping (and climbing!) is burly near the closely spaced bolts, but the fall is into clean air. Traversing above the lip of the roof on those 4 unlikely and amazingly huge pockets will make you smile! A very long draw on the lower of the 2 close bolts could make the redpoint feel less scary.

Also, Andy Wellman and I both felt the last bolt would be much better a few feet to the left. It would still be easy to clip, you have to move left anyway for the final moves, and in its current position, it's very easy to catch a leg behind the rope while dyno-thrutching at the end. No big deal if you stick it, but not so good for falling.... Apr 20, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12d
This route looks more intimidating than it really is. The climbing is worth the effort. Sep 8, 2007
Jesse Ryan
  5.12d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12d
Super Fun Line. Worthwhile. Considered skipping both clips Adam refers to, but took fun falls every time I tried this strategy. Sent after I had the psychological comfort of clipping the goldshut. Nov 9, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I occasionally see a party on this route when I'm out at the Gym but I think the intimidatingly steep nature of the climb scares some away. Definitely a must-do route. Mar 19, 2002
Colin Lantz got the FA on this route. There was a large clipping block that parted from the route and you are correct that the gold shut was added after this happend. Mar 19, 2002