Type: Sport
FA: Kevin Gonzales
Page Views: 3,489 total · 17/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Ejection Seat, My Generation tackles another steep overhang and slab. It begins with a tough, bouldery start to a horizontal break (rest), then continue with a very thin section to an obvious hueco. Shake out and complete a final crux reach. Enjoy the tricky 5.11 slab. This is the easiest of Dan Durland's Triple Crown routes, but if you do not have the cruxes dialed, I would recommend a very long draw for the second bolt above the break. This bolt is very difficult to clip otherwise, since it is in the middle of the crux. A fall onto the lower bolt is awkward and potentially dangerous. Otherwise, this has excellent climbing.

Protection

9 bolts/ anchors.

Photos

Joe Collins
  5.12d
Joe Collins  
  5.12d
I'm not sure how useful Peter's suggestion of a long draw on the 2nd bolt after the horizontal (4th total) will be... its a pretty tough clip but there really aren't any decent lower holds... the best hold in this section is a crimpy pocket next to the bolt... I'll have to check out that beta when I return. Bring a stick clip... pre-clipping the first two-bolts seems fairly crucial for the boulder problem. Oct 18, 2004
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
Long draw on the 4th bolt is the (shhhh!) secret beta for a shorter climber, it makes all the difference. This route is enjoyable and worth an effort- tricky and engaging moves followed by a couple big reaches and fun slab climbing- from super steep to thin slab in 30 seconds. Don't forget to tick Ejector Seat also! Feb 11, 2008
steph johnson
Roanoke (DENTON)
steph johnson   Roanoke (DENTON)
What routes make up Durland's Triple Crown day? May 15, 2011
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13a
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13a
I think this is 13a, but if we call it 12d, it's consistent with the general old school/sand-bagged nature of the Gym.

The Gym triple crown is to do The Example, Deeper Shade, and My Generation in a day. It probably made more sense BITD when there weren't a many hard routes at Shelf. Dec 13, 2011
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
Upgraded 12/13/14, first two bolts, cold shuts swapped for new Fixe hanger.
Last bolt spinner re-drilled ASCA bolt.
Top anchor swapped (11/30/14), thanks to team work between Nate and myself, special thanks to the ASCA for the hardware. Dec 18, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
A very good route. First 4 bolts are a burlfest, then really cool climbing all the way to the top. As good, or in my opinion better than its neighbor, but sees very little action these days due to Ejection Seat being right next to it. Skip bolt one, stick cliping bolt two works well and flows nicely. Do it! Nov 16, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
Sure felt 13a for this shorter climber. Probably feels easier if you can keep your feet on the ledge while making the crux moves. Long draw and clipping from the underclings was key for me. May 14, 2016