Type: Sport
FA: Andrew, Glenda, and Alexi Lainis, 2000
Page Views: 2,145 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on May 6, 2002 with updates from Alexi Lainis
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

On the North end of The Gym (referred to as the "New Gym" in Thompson's guide to Cactus/Spiny), but to the right of Black Mamba Arete, is a steep red panel that is split by a crack. Follow a line of bolts past the seam which widens to a finger, then hand crack, over a small roof. Do an exciting lieback move and pull left to two more bolts and work the crack up to the anchors. The route finishes below a roof.

A very nice route and worth the walk from Cactus and Spiny ridge. Also in the shade in the afternoon.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
A steep line up beautiful red rock. Lots of positive edges and a finger crack crux give this route a different feel than many of the Shelf pocket-fests. Oct 15, 2003
Edward Jenner
  5.10d
Edward Jenner  
  5.10d
2-stars for a great route marred only by the bird crap near the anchors. The small roof is more intimidating when you get to it than it looks from the ground, but there is a bomber juggy pocket to make the next clip from. Interesting, continuous and fairly steep make this route worthy May 17, 2004
MeeshCat
Westminster, CO
MeeshCat   Westminster, CO
Very fun climb!! Great practice climbing a little crack at the top, too.... I was able to put my hand in 3 times to climb past the crux. I definitely recommend. :) Jun 24, 2016
Paul Sukow
Denver, CO
 
Paul Sukow   Denver, CO
 
The block after the crack crux is loose. It doesn't look like it, but it moves when pulled on. Oct 23, 2016