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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 4,000 total, 21/month
Shared By: Dan Durland on Dec 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Standing at the base of The Example look up canyon toward Cripple Creek until the cliff turns out of sight. The prominent, overhanging prow just to the right of the large corner that is above the large block on the hillside is your target. The buttress holds three routes, Deeper Shade of Soul being the left most route; tackling the prow with Metolius hangers.

Trundle up 3 bolts to enter the crux, working through a big cross through, sloper and two monos (the left hand one is enhanced) ending on a large, flat edge. From here it is 4 bolts and mid .12 to the anchor but remains sustained. The crux has sent many people away with sore fingers and bruised egos and it is not unknown to fail while pulling to the anchors. Variously described as a pile (mainly from the bruised ego folks) to quite a good route, Deeper Shade of Soul, will test your pocket pulling abilities and endurance.

If you dig this then go for the Triple Crown - My Generation, The Example, and Deeper Shade of Soul all in one day and hanging all the draws.

Protection

9 bolts to coldshut lowering station.

Photos

This is one of my favorite routes that I've done in CO. The mono-to-mono crux was just pure fun! In regards to the "enhancements", I saw nothing that struck me as out of the ordinary while on the route. Nothing that screamed Predator, haha. I highly recommend this route, techy, burly, and steep!

Short clip:

youtube.com/watch?v=u2-W7qC… Jan 26, 2016
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
  5.13b/c
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
  5.13b/c
I did the FA of this sometime in June 1991 as I recall. I did not chip or glue any holds so I am surprised to read the comments here about this. I distinctly remember that the route was very sharp and some on the holds very painful. It seemed to be at least a letter grade harder than The Example. The route name came from a song by Urban Dance Squad that came out that summer.


youtube.com/watch?v=qw5Gl28… Dec 11, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
  5.13b
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
  5.13b
I sought out to climb this route without the 'enhanced' left hand mono, and found it made the crux only marginally harder- and in my opinion better. This is a great route, with interesting, powerful moves- leading into an endurance testing finish. Highly recommended, 2nd best Lantz 13 at Shelf- a step below the Example. Apr 16, 2007
Joe Collins
  5.13b/c
Joe Collins  
  5.13b/c
Although this isn't a one-move wonder, it definitely favors the boulderer. The meat is a 6 or 7 move V6ish sequence just after the big cross through. Definitely more power than power endurance. To illustrate, I have heard some say that they think this is easier than The Example. Totally different style climb, but this is definitely way more powerful and less endurancey than The Example, which I consider a power-endurance problem. Nevertheless, this is certainly one of the classics of the grade at Shelf, nearly on par with The Example. Oct 31, 2006
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13b
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13b
I climbed this one in March, 2005. I think it is quite good compared to other hard routes at Shelf. The rock isn't the greatest at the start, but it gets a lot better. What I really enjoyed about it is that the moves are quite interesting, and relatively gymnastic for Shelf. Furthermore, many of the other hard routes at Shelf (12+ and up) that I have tried seem to be one move wonders, whereas this one was definitely a power-endurance test. I didn't think the route was tweaky either. There are the two mono moves, but they are huge monos, and you have really good feet at that point.

As for the chipping...the left hand mono seems to have some kind of epoxy or resin in the bottom of it. That is the only evidence I saw of any "funny business". Is it possible someone tried to return the pocket to its original condition? I think it would be possible to climb this route while avoiding that pocket altogether, but it would be harder.

I think this route is a must-do if you climb at the grade. Mar 21, 2005