All Locations > Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Gym

VHS or Beta

Name: VHS or Beta
Rating: 2.8

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Gym

L › R R › L A › Z

	Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Free Willie V1-2 5
	Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn
Page Views:	1,182 total · 11/month
Shared By:	b hof on Apr 13, 2014
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Start out with easy climbing past 2 bolts and then into continues 5.11 moves to an overlap. Cop a quick shake, then decipher the crux to a hard clip. Don't celebrate quite yet, because there is sporty, sustained face climbing all the way to the anchors. This route has some amazing black limestone that climbs similar to The Dark Side.

Per Darryl Roth: this was the first route put up at The Gym.

Location

This gem is the route furthest right on the Carb Wall, located on the crest between the Combustion Wall and Ejection Wall. The route starts above a thorn patch, with the first 3 bolts in a black streak.

Protection

6 bolts and 2 coldshut anchors

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