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Routes in The Gym

Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Bonus, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lockdown S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
My Generation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Flex S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trout Fishing S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Urban Fringe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Colin Lantz, 1988
Page Views: 8,403 total, 41/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the distinctive buttress left of the Gym Arete. A stout beginning leads to good pockets, including the best mono at Shelf. A final crux off a poor undercling leaves most dangling 10 feet lower. This is a must do for the grade, even if there is still some debate regarding the grade and the "true" line.

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Power endurance pocket pulling. Some monos, two finger, and three finger holes. Some shallow, some sinker, some that feel like you're going to break your finger off. "Undercling like your life depends on it" is spot on. This route is oh so sweet, although you best prepare your fingers and skin for a raping. I'm also not one to propose grades, because everyone has a different experience on routes, I use them as a general guideline. However, if you're short, the crux is going to feel hella hard, and you can give yourself soft 5.13b. At 5'7 and plus 1, I had to full on dyno, there is just no way to reach the jug from the undercling move without really going for it, it's just too far... I love this route! Feb 9, 2015
Colin Lantz
Nederland, CO
  5.13a/b
Colin Lantz   Nederland, CO
  5.13a/b
I did the FA of this in the summer of 1988 just before going to the first International Sport Climbing Competition at Snowbird, Utah. I climbed straight up at the crux and did not traverse out right. If you traverse out right you are on the Gym Arete. It never occurred to me to do this. Evidently, a lot of folks doing early repeats of the route traversed out right which avoids the crux, hence the early downgrading of the route. The logical, "true", and original way to climb the route is straight up.

The picture below is from the same day I did the redpoint. If you look closely you can make out that I am clipped in directly to the donut on my harness. I had called in sick at work to go down to Shelf to do the route and had begged Chip Ruckgaber to come and give me a belay. I really wanted to get a picture but the problem was we were only two, so...I climbed up, clipped directly into a bolt and then Chip jugged up a fixed line and took a few pictures. You can see the rope laying on the ground and no belayer in sight.

The route was named after a seriously heavy, very cheap, plate of nachos sold at a dive Mexican food stand in New Paltz, NY called The Last Stand. A favorite of mine for the high dollars to calories ratio, the menu listed nachos that you could order with any combination you wanted from a list of ingredients, and showed an example of a custom order. The "example" nacho plate became a specialty of the house and a climber favorite in the Gunks. The double entendre of the route name was not lost on me. There were a lot of really bad bolts from the construction industry and homemade bolt hangers made out of angle iron being used at Shelf during that era. I'd been to Smith Rocks once already and seen a much better quality of bolting there. I thought The Example would be a good "example" of how to bolt a route.

A new pair of Dolomite climbing shoes from Italy made a huge difference for me on this route. Metolius had just started importing them to the states and the pointy toe made all the difference on the small pockets on the route. I was having a lot of trouble with the footwork on this route using my old Mariachers. When I got these shoes, which were designed by Patrick Edlinger specifically for the new style of "sport" climbing, the redpoint came quickly. I think the model was the Emotion.

I went to France and climbed at Buoux and the Verdon for the first time later that year. I went in September and stayed for two months. I think I did the entire trip on about $500 including the plane ticket. The Example ended up being great training for the style of climbing found in Buoux. The painful sharp pockets on The Example were great for getting your skin ready for Buoux where calluses on the sides and tops of your fingers were carefully cultivated by the top climbers of the day.
Dec 11, 2009
Joe Collins
  5.13a/b
Joe Collins  
  5.13a/b
I'm floored by some of the comments above. Why in the world would you traverse to avoid the crux? And sharp? Welcome to Shelf. Just because this route seems to occasionally bout 5.14 climbers does not mean it is lacking in quality. Sep 21, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
I agree Ian, it never occured to me to traverse way off route and around the corner. My top 3 at Shelf for sure. Jul 22, 2009
Ian Spencer-Green  
  5.13a
I cranked this route when I was 13 years old. I feel it is an absolutely stellar line and recommend it highly. Go straight up at the crux though, I am surprised anyone would consider traversing around the corner at the crux, as the crux is the funnest part of the route. Jul 9, 2009
bwillem
the wasatch
bwillem   the wasatch
Thanks to whoever put the fixed draws up! Apr 7, 2008
Scott Hahn  
 
Of all of the routes I have climbed at Shelf, I seriously hate this route. The rock is beautiful the movement good. But the holds cut and destroyed my tendons like no other. Everytime I got on it I swore I would never do that again. This route for me is The Example of what NOT to climb! Oct 27, 2007
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.13a/b
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.13a/b
This route kicks ass. Sep 8, 2007
Incredible route. But I'm also more than a little suspicous about the "best mono at Shelf". Funny that this and My Generation are both given 13a in the new guide, yet this is miles harder. Oct 10, 2005
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13b
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.13b
I concur with the original 13a/b rating. This route is considerably harder than other a's at shelf, and more in line with many of the so-called b's...I'm a little short though. It's nice because it's actually not a one-move wonder like most the other hard routes at Shelf.

This has to be the best pocketed limestone route in the U.S. I can't think of anything that even compares, not even at Wild Iris. May 26, 2005
Check out The Example's bolts for any issues and check on the history of the old Metolius eye bolts before replacing these bolts. If memory serves, the major issue with the eye bolts was a twisting motion which would loosen the wedge bolt especially in soft rock like Smith. I do not think that any of the bolts are suffering this fate on the Example, but the anchors, with the toy store chain sure could be moved down 3 or 4 feet and spruced up. Dec 7, 2001