Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 170 total · 1/month
Shared By: TBD on May 14, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A couple hundred feet right of the Mammoth Wall (home of Natty Dread, Ga-stoned Again, and many other fine routes) is an inviting clean slab. This route ascends the center of this wall and was established in vintage style. As such it is a little run-out, however as such is also very engaging and thoughtful.

Standing at the base of the wall, the route will be obvious. Look for the spread out line of bolts, with the first being a ways up and the second similarly far above the first. From the ground the climbing looks very difficult between the first and second bolt, but there are good holds and feet that aren't obvious from the ground and aren't covered with chalk. Start in a finger crack and climb up to the first bolt, continue meandering past the line of bolts finding the path of least resistance. There is currently a two bolt anchor at the top.

This route is great in it's current state. Periodic good stances allow for the necessary thinking the route requires to ascend safely. While run-out, the protection seems quite appropriate, in my opinion. I sincerely hope that this route does NOT get retro-bolted. If it does, it will become an average 5.10 clip-up. The largest detraction from this route is the ridiculous squeeze job that has been put in to the right of it (Senor Verde). The location of the first few bolts of this new route severly detracts from the beginning of Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception, a true shame.

Protection

Quick draws.

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jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I really liked this route. It's too bad it doesn't see a lot of traffic. Nature is starting to take this one back. There are several areas where the good horizontal ledges are starting to grow back vegetation. The bolting style is just awesome in my opinion even if it's runout. Which is probably why so many people pass it by. It's definitely dicey heading to the 2, or 3 bolt, but if you try to ignore the possible ground fall potential and just climb it's not too bad. This type of route will really work your ability to keep a cool head during those heady leads, and most climbers lack of slab climbing skills. At least it did for me. Apr 27, 2008
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Lead bolts replaced 12/6/2014. Big thanks to ASCA for the hardware!

Original spacing maintained, so the route is still spicy. I also cleaned up some loose rock and vegetation, so it's as good to go as it's ever been. Just don't fall going for the 2nd bolt.... Dec 8, 2014